Tuesday, November 24, 2009

How to plant trees and shrubs

These tree planting steps are designed for the lower elevations of the desert southwest. But can be applied to almost any zone area.

1. Water - This is the most important factor. You will need to water all trees and shrubs on a daily basis for at least the first 2-3 weeks after planting them. 3-5 gallons or water per 5 ga. tree. This is very critical during the summer months.

2. To ensure successful planting do NOT fertilize right after planting your tree or shrub. Use a good root stimulator to stimulate root growth. Do not fertilize during the winter months. Use a good all purpose tree or shrub fertilizer right after the last frost ( usually after march in the southwest ) Water about twice per month during December, January and March. Typically you should fertilize once in the spring, summer and fall.

3. Most southwestern soils lack acid, use a good compost with some acidity to help root development during planting.  You can purchase a pH  (potential of Hydrogen)  tester to measure levels of acidity or akaline in your soil. 
4. If you are using a drip system be sure that the emitter is directly over the root ball of the tree or plant. A couple of inches off may result in insuffcient water to your plant. Many plants have gone to "plant heaven" because of this one mistake.

5. Fertilize your tree or shrub with a good all purpose fertilizer anything close to a 16-8-8 analysis will work great. Leaves turning yellow are sometimes a lack of iron in the soil. Add a fertilizer with iron, liquid iron or ironite.  This should be done only when your plants or trees have leafed out. 
6. Remember most trees and shrubs need about 6 monts to about 1 year before they are established. Once established Almost all plants will require less water.

7. Native plants need as much watering as other plants during the first year. Once established they will usually thrive with much less water. Once a month during winter and about 1 per week during the dry hot summer months.

8. Be sure the root ball on all container plants are intact when planting them. Do NOT expose the roots. The plant will go in extreme shock and may die.

9. Remove and clear any and all weeds and rocks that may be in the area. Weeds will suck out water and nutrients from the soil. Large rocks or debris will hinder root development.

10. Continually check and observe your tree, shrub or plant making sure there are no signs of diseases or insect problems. Insects love new leaf growth. Diseases are usually fungal. Signs are usually wilting, slow growth, leaves turning yellow during the summer months. Not sure what the problem might be? Trim off a branch, limb or leaf and bring it in to your local nursery or greenhouse. They usually have the most knowledgable gardening employees around.

There you have it how to plant trees and shrubs.  Pretty simple and basic.  For more gardening tips visit: Coloryourworldllc.com

Sunday, November 22, 2009

How to grow vegetables

I am often asked which vegetables are the easiest to plant during the spring season. Being from the Southwestern part of the U.S. my first response is…Chili’s or Peppers.

One of the most popular is the Jalapeno. This pepper can grow to about 3" long and about 1.5" wide. They are ready when the dark green flesh starts to turn a reddish color. They are of course highly pungent.

It is really hard to tell which one will be hotter the next one. The jalapeno can be canned, pickeled. The tam Jalapeno is what most wholesalers use for their Salsa's. The Long Green Chili also very popular throughout the southwest.

The Anaheim Chili, is a classic favorite with Unbeatable Mild Heat! 8-inch peppers are well protected by foliage throughout their growth.

The Chili or pepper vegetables are easy to grow, tolerate extreme heat and insects rarely bother them. Buying them full grown at the grocery store can be a bit expensive. They are highly nutritious with lots of vitamin C. They like to be planted in full sun and watering should be done almost daily during the hot summer months. You can purchase chili or pepper seeds at your local nursery store. The cost is around 2-4 bucks per package. Be sure to purchase this years seeds and not last years. Many big box store nurseries will forget to dispose of older seed packages.

Tomatoes are the next easy vegetable plants to grow. The beefsteak, early girl and cherry tomatoes are fast growing and provide lots of vitamin C. Plant them about 3 ft. apart and be sure to use tomato cages to support their weight. Use bird netting to keep birds away during the growing season. There a tons of other varieties that you can use. Make sure you use good composted soil and purchase seeds that are resistant to diseases. Tomato rot and Verticillium Wilt are two of the more common ones. If your tomato plants look bad be sure to contact your county extension agent or you local nursery and ask for a manager. These folks make a living helping out vegetable gardeners.

Carrots are another easy to grow type of vegetable to grow in your garden. Plant them about 6 inches in rows apart and 2 inches apart from each seed. You can harvest carrots throughout the summer and fall months. Carrots do not like colder type weather be sure to plant when you are sure the last frost has passed. They also like good composted soil that drains well.

Here is a list of other vegetable plants that can be easily planted.
  1. Lettuce – Can be grown in cooler fall type weather. The Jericho variety can tolerate poor soil and hot weather.
  2. Onions – Put seeds about 4-5 inches into the ground. Be sure the last frost has passed.
  3. Broccoli – Will continue to produce even after the first head has been harvested.
  4. Cucumbers – Just let them grow on the ground…kind of like pumpkins.
  5. Basil – Does not like cooler temperatures. Excellent herb plant that grows until the first frost
  6. Beets – Baby beets are the best to plant. Sow about 1-2 inches apart and then thin out as time goes on.

These vegetable plants need good composted soil that drains well. Be sure to use a good vegetable fertilizer and fertilize about once per month. A 10-10-10 is a good mixture of Nitrogen, Phosphorus and Potash.

It is best to use organic type fertilizers and insecticides. However organic materials do not always work as well as man made matter. One of the best deterrents to a healthy garden is constant observance and taking early steps to control insect infestation or disease problems.

Paul Guzman - Color Your World Nursery Las Cruces, NM.
More easy to grow vegetables information here. 


Saturday, November 14, 2009

Beautiful fall color trees

Fall color is the best time to enjoy the outdoors.  Numerous trees, shrubs and plants that make this time of year explode with all types of color.  From light gorgeous yellow to bright full red.  Here are my recommendations for trees and shrubs that will light your garden landscape.

Chinese Pistache Trees (Scientific Name: Pistacia chinensis)

Loves Full Sun can be planted in USDA Zones: 4-10 This Southwestern tree is a desirable ornamental with attractive, umbrella-like crown. Lustrous green leaves turn a brilliant orange crimson in fall. Very drought tolerant, deciduous and extremely handsome tree. About 30-40 ft. tall and wide. Does well in the desert heat.

Modesto Ash Scientific Name: Fraxinus velutina 'Modesto'

They Love the full southwestern sun.  Can be planted in USDA Zone 8 - 9.  They can grow up to 40ft tall and 30ft wide. An excellent shade tree and moderate grower. Does very well in the southwest, moderate watering check for parasite growth (Mistletoe) deciduous. All varieties of Ash trees will do well in the southwest. Fall cleanup moderate. Stunning full bright Golden Yellow in the fall.

The Raywood Ash tree Scientific Name: Fraxinus oxycarpa.  This is an excellent easy care drought tolerant tree to use for your southwestern landscape or just about any part of the U.S. It grows about 2ft per year but will grow much faster if watered and fertilized more often. The Raywood ash tree turns a fantastic deep red during the fall seasons. It grows to about 50-60ft tall and about 40ft wide.

You can see some photos of these trees at:  Greenhouse Trees

Friday, November 13, 2009

How to make a pond

The placement of any in-ground pond is essential. You will need to consider several factors into deciding where and what you and your family, friends and neighbors are going to actually see when the pond is completed.

You can build your pond, water feature, patio water garden, koi pond or whatever you like to call it, from a variety of materials, including hard plastic liners, rubber liners, rigid plastic or fiberglass liners or even from concrete. This article will tell you how it should be done using the plastic method.

A plastic liner can easily be purchase online or at your local nursery. When purchasing your pond liner, be sure to read the fine print. Basically, flexible liners are either rubber or plastic. Rubber is more expensive but works much better and it does cost more. The thickness should be about 40 milimeters or more and should work well with most average size ponds.

The pool itself should be placed on a low, level area, where it would naturally occur. A small slope is fine especially if you are going to have a waterfall in the garden pond. The water flow needs to look natural and flow down hill. You can leave the ground sloped or even enhance the slope where you intend to put the waterfall while easily leveling the pond area.

It is best to avoid placing the garden pond underneath trees or large shrubs as they will need more frequent cleaning of the pond. Shade will generate more moss, and algae, which means less types of water plants and frequent cleaning. This should not impede your quest for a natural pond. There are many low light water plants that can used. Hiring a pond cleaner is also an option.

Don’t place your garden pond where you will receive runoff containing debris or water from roof tops, street, streams or any water that might be toxic. You will probably want to have plants and fish in the pond which are highly sensitive to foreign chemicals in the water. Even runoff which passes over cement can be effectively toxic. Cement contains lime which raises the pH level. Fish can tolerate a wide range of pH levels, but the constant changes will stress them out and could kill them.

It is important to note what your final view of the pond will look like. A pond visible from a large main window in the home can add considerable enjoyment of your home. If placed in the front entry-way a pond can be quite a view for your visitors.

Imagine coming home everyday and enjoying the koi fish and the soothing sound of water cascading downstream. A waterscape pond feature in your garden will turn your hard day at work into a tranquil environment.

Remember these are pond garden tips and are for those who are looking to do it themselves.

See exceptional ponds at Pond Kits

Sunday, October 18, 2009

How to start a garden that gets noticed

If you're thinking about starting a garden, the first thing you need to consider is what type of garden you will have. There are many different choices and often it can be hard to pick just one, but hopefully you can narrow it down. But by narrowing it down, you'll make the gardening experience easier on yourself and the plants.

If all your plants are similar, then it shouldn't be very hard to care for them all. So here are some of the main garden ideas for you to choose from. If you're just looking for something to look nice in your yard, you'll want a flower garden. These are usually filled with perennial flower. Perennial flowers are flowers which stay healthy year-round. They're basically weeds because of their hardiness, only nice looking. Different areas and climates have different flowers which are considered perennials. If you do a quick internet search for your area, you can probably find a list of flowers that will bring your flower garden to life. These usually only require work in the planting stage - after that, the flower take care of themselves. The only downside to this is that you don't have any product to show for it.

Another choice for your garden is to have a vegetable garden. These usually require a little more work and research than a flower garden, but can be much more rewarding. No matter what time of the year it is, you can usually find one vegetable that is still prospering. That way you can have your garden be giving you produce almost every day of the year! When starting a vegetable garden, you should build it with the thought in mind that you will be adding more types of veggies in later. This will help your expandability. Once all your current crops are out of season, you won't be stuck with almost nowhere to put the new crops. A vegetable garden is ideal for someone who wants some produce, but doesn't want to devote every waking hour to perfecting their garden (see below.)
One of the more difficult types of gardens to manage is a fruit garden. It's definitely the most high-maintenance. When growing fruits, many more pests will be attracted due to the sweetness. You not only have to deal with having just the right dirt and fertilizer, you have to deal with choosing a pesticide that won't kill whoever eats the fruits. Your fruit garden will probably not produce year-round. The soil needs to be just right for the plants to grow, and putting in another crop during itsoff-season could be disastrous to its growth process. If you're willing to  put lots of work into maintaining a garden, then a fruit garden could be a good choice for you.

So now that I've outlined some of the main garden types that people choose, I hope you can make a good decision. Basically, the garden type comes down to what kind of product you want, and how much work you want to do.

Friday, October 09, 2009

What type of colorful plants to use for winter

Colorful Winter Plants

Camellias do well in a winter garden.  For some reason many folks in the southwest have forgotten about these plants very colorful winter plants.  These amazing plants produce masses of pink, white and red blossoms over a long season in winter and throughout early spring.

Another winter plant for the garden is the hellebore. It is also called the winter rose. The foliage can withstand cold temperatures even snow.  The most common are tthe Helleborus x hybridus (or H. orientalis). They come in greenish to pure white, spotted pinks to deep maroon and almost black. Attractive forms are sought and many, often expensive, named varieties can be found. They come back up in seed form in early spring.

Pansies are another wonderul colorful cold hardy plant.  They come in numerous colors and sizes.  The nice thing about pansies are the numerous variety of colors. They are available in almost all home garden nurseries.  They come in white, yellow, purple and blue are old fashioned favorites.  The hybrids have made the color array much larger.  Ask for them at your local friendly Nursery.

Other cold hardy plants are stock, viola's and snapdragons they are not quite as cold hardy as pansies but they can take temperatures down to about 34 degress farenheight.

If you are in the Las Cruces Southwest area be sure to visit Color Your World Nurseries located at 540 N. Telshore or call us at 575 521 0496. 

Thanks from Paul and Gary Guzman
Guzman's Garden Center

Thursday, September 17, 2009

Easy Care Houseplant Tips

Houseplant problems and how to correct them.

Tips of leaves turning brown at the tip.
Humidity is probably too low

Maybe over fertilizering can cause leaf burn.

You might have too much excess salt in soil.

Too Much Fluoride in your water.

Leaves Turning Yellow.
You need more nitrogen (fertlizer) in your soil.

You might be overwatering.

You could have hot or cold draft.

The lower leaves will naturally turn yellow then fall off. This is the natural aging process.

Leaves fall off from the plant

You need to add some humidity into the air.

You could be overwatering or underwatering...symptoms are very similiar.

Plants need time to adjust to new environment.

The foliage on new plant stay small

Too low or high light can cause leaves to remain small.

You might need to fertilize your plant use a houseplant fertilizer.

Growth of plants seems long and leggy.
You may be overfertilizing

Place the plant where it get more light.

Plant does not seem to grow.
Possibly temperature is too cool. Put in a warmer place.

Place plant where it gets more light.

The Flower Buds always fall off

There could be a draft in the room cold or hot.

Up the humidity.

Potting soil needs more water. Do NOT let it go dry.

Do NOT move the plant around keep it in one area.

You may need more phosphorus in your soil.

Most houseplants will need water at least once per day, especially during the hot summer months. Deep watering 4-5 times per week is better than light watering once per day. You can cut back on watering during the winter months and little to no fertilizing during the cold weather months.

Wednesday, September 09, 2009

Fall Fruit Tree Care and Pruning

Easy Fruit Tree care and Pruning Tips

Here are a number of things you should do to your fruit trees before winter to ensure the best possible production next season.

Fruit trees need so many chilling hours in order to produce fruit. Call and ask your friendly nursery what kind of fruit trees do well in your area.  Also call you local extension agency for the number of chilling hours in your area.

Fig trees are productive with or without heavy pruning. Pruning fruit trees brings fear and concern to southwestern gardeners. Pruning and training your fruit trees are important to creating an arrangement that will yield the maximum crop of fruit.
Pruning tools can be disinfected with a 10% solution of bleach before and after use to prevent diseases from spreading with the cuts that you make. Pruning in the late summer or fall may encourage the tree to continue growing. The pruning of the tree in early years is called tree training as you have to prune the tree so it is a triangle shape with a point at the top. This means that no part of the tree is blocking another part from the sun.

Also there may be variations in the best pruning methods depending on where you live. Start your pruning by removing any dead, damaged or diseased branches. Fruit trees need regular pruning and insect treatments to keep them healthy and by proper pruning and care will encourage optimal growth and most importantly a good healthy large harvest during the fall season.

Always remove any diseased or damaged branches, any crossing branches, any narrow angling branches, and one of the branches in a fork. If you want healthy fruit crops, spray your trees with Neem Oil to control pests and diseases.  This should be done in early spring to prevent a large infestation of insects.  You can also use a systemic insecticide to get rid of fruit tree insects.  However be sure to read the label for the proper time to apply this insecticide.

Monday, August 31, 2009

Outdoor furniture in Las Cruces

Outdoor decor in Southwestern New Mexico.

Have you ever bought outdoor furniture at you local big mart stores? The following year it looks old or worse it breaks apart. The southwestern New Mexico heat will deteriorate this cheap outdoor furniture quickly. How do I know...I bought some myself and you and I know it never lasts.

There is a new type of outdoor decor that can last almost indefinitely and it comes from Hanamint.com. Their stuff looks so good you might be tempted to used it for indoor furniture. This fine outdoor furniture has a 10 year warranty. Hanamint warrants the powder coat finish for three (3) years from date of purchase, including peeling or blistering. (1) year for wood, cushions, sling fabrics and umbrella frames. This limited warranty applies to residential use only.

Hanamint makes it easy to enhance the beauty of the outdoor room with its innovative and classic designs. With over 10 years in the outdoor market, Hanamint provides high-quality products with outstanding workmanship, supported with the highest standards in customer service, business integrity and strategic partnerships.

You can see some of this furniture at Color Your World Nurseries in Las Cruces, NM. Ask to see the Hanamint Outdoor Decor Catalog. Or check out some the products right here on our webpage - outdoor furniture.

Sunday, August 30, 2009

New Mexico Gardening Tips

new mexcio gardening
Gardening in New Mexico particularly the lower elevations of the Southwest poses special problems. The soil is sandy and dry and rain water is in short supply. However there are some things you can do to increase fruit, flowers and greenery if you come from this part of the country.

  1. Water - You should increase watering times on your garden and lawn. Especially during the hot summer months. Non native plants and trees are especially vulnerable to heat scorch and stress. Use a good drip system to water your trees and shrubs. Make certain the drip emitters are directly over the root ball of all plants. Set your water timer to about every other day about 20 minutes each time. Newly planted shrubs and trees need water twice per day for about the first month.

  2. Fertilize more often. Trees and shrubs require more nitrogen and potash. Flowering plants need more phosphorus. Fertilizers with these nutrients should be purchased at a local greenhouse or nursery. Be sure to follow directions accordingly.

  3. Use good rich composted material when planting. Compost should be back-filled into the hole along with current soil. About a 50/50 percent ratio.

  4. Use a good mulch on top of soil to help keep moisture in and weeds out. Eucalyptus and Cedar mulch work well. These type of mulches also help build a barrier to keep insects out.

  5. You should also increase watering times for your lawn (be sure to follow city restrictions). A healthy well kept lawn will keep away weeds and diseases. Watering should be done in the early morning hours. Do NOT water during night time as this may induce fungus problems.

  6. Fruit and Pecan trees need a fertilize with zinc. Be sure to purchase a fertilizer with at least a 5% of this essential tree nutrient.

  7. Inspect your plants regularly don't just plant and forget. Go out and enjoy the day...check each tree, plants, shrub flowers for insects or diseases. Early detection of any problems can reduce the chances of your plants dying or looking bad.

For more southwestern gardening tips visit guzmansgreenhouse.com

Paul Guzman

Las Cruces Water Fountains

Water Fountains are very popular items in the Southwest. The cool relaxing atmosphere it creates during the hot summer months is ideal for Southwestern outdoor decor. Almost all water fountains now come with pumps that will re-circulate water from the bottom bowl upwards towards the top and back down via non viewable hoses.
Most of our Fountains come from Henri Studios. Henri Studio is the world leader in original handcrafted cast stone products. Their unique Fountains, Statuary and Outdoor furnishings are one of a kind in design – form and function. Visit their website for more information:

Maintenance on these fountains is low and cleaning should be done at the end of the fall season. You do have to empty all water before freezing temperatures arrive. More information about water fountain care can be found here: Waterfountaincare.

At Color Your World Nursery in Las Cruces we have lots of water fountains they are 30% off and on sale until mid September 2009. We also have a large catalog with hundreds of other fountains that you can choose from. You can give us a call at 575 521-0496 and ask for water fountain information. We also offer setup and delivery options. We will be glad to help.
Paul Guzman

Sunday, August 23, 2009

Time to harvest vegetables

When is it time to harvest vegetables?

It is important to note that vegetables will not grow as big, and tall as the supermarket kind. Commercial vegetables growers use insecticides, pesticides, and fertilizers that are much stronger than what the local nurseries have. This is one reason why "organic gardening" has grown in popularity in recent years. Read this article about organic gardening.

Below are some common vegetables and tips on when and how they should be harvested.

Asparagus - The Asparagus spears should be about 8 inches tall and about as thick as your small finger. Snap them off at the dirt or ground level and new spears will continue to grow. Stop harvesting about 4-6 weeks after the initial harvest, to allow the plants to produce foliage and food for themselves.

Snap Beans - Be sure to pick before the you can see the seeds bulging. They should snap easily into two separate beans. Check your crop daily sometimes they will mature in one afternoon.

Beets - They are ready any time after you see the beets shoulders sticking out at the soil line. Beets can be harvested when they are small, medium or large. It is up to you.

Broccoli - You can actually eat the unopened flower buds of broccoli, so check frequently, especially as the weather warms up, to ensure you don’t let the flower heads bloom. Harvest when the buds are about the size of a pea.

Brussel Sprouts - They should be at least 1 inch. in diameter before harvesting. Harvest by twisting off or cutting the sprout from the stem. These vegetables mature from the bottom up.

Cabbage - The head of the Cabbage should be almost hard before harvesting . Make sure to harvest when they are ready otherwise they will continue to split.

Carrots - My Favorite. The tops of the carrot will show at the dirt or soil line and you can judge when the diameter looks right for your variety. If the diameter looks good, chances are the length is fine too. But you will need to pull one out to be sure. Carrots can be left in the ground once mature. A light frost can add to the flavor of the crop.

Cauliflower - Remember do not expect your Cauliflower to be as big as the supermarket. Harvest when the head looks full and while the curds of the head are still smooth.

Chile's - Lots of varieties. Habaneros should be firm and about 2-4 inches long. Long green Chile should also be firm and sunken in. They are about 4-6 inches long. Over ripen long green Chile will turn red. This is OK since you can now make red Chile sauce. More chile information right here: Chile Tips

Corn - The silks have to form first usually about 3-4 weeks or so. They will turn dry and brown. The kernels should display a white milky substance when pricked.

Cucumber - You should check them every day. Harvest them when they are young . Timing and length will vary with variety. The should be firm and smooth to the touch. Over ripen cucumbers will taste bitter this can happen before they start to turn yellow.

Eggplant - Should be firm and rigid to the touch . You should always cut them off don't pull out.

Garlic - They are ready to be harvested when they turn brown. Be sure to clean off completely and allow them to dry before storing.

Kale - Kale can actually be harvested throughout the season, but they should be green and rigid to the touch. Kale will taste much better during the cool season. Kale is also a great ornamental plant. Great blue green color finishing its cycle in late winter. Usually February in the Southwest.
Leeks - When Leeks reach about 1 inch. in diameter you know it's time to harvest.

Lettuce - Should be harvested once the head feels full and firm with a gentle squeeze. Hot weather will cause it to bolt or go to seed rather than filling out.

Harvesting vegetables can be a big chore make it much easier using the garden scoot or cart.
The adjustable garden seat swivels 360 degrees. Pneumatic tires roll smoothly on grass, cement or landscaping rock. Steering handle guides cart around corners and eliminates the need to get up. Get yours today at:

Sunday, August 02, 2009

Lawn care for the Southwest

How to have a picture perfect lawn in the Southwest

Lawns in the Southwest require some special requirements than other parts of the U.S.

For one thing we get very little rain. Some parts of the desert southwest get only 2 maybe 3 inches per year. Wow... that is a staggering stat considering Seattle Washingtion gets on the average about 36.2 inches per year.

So what can the average Joe living in the lower elevations of the desert do to keep his lawn looking good.

Choose drought tolerant grasses. Bermuda varities will work great. Princess77 is a great water saver and looks good throughout the hot summer months. Buffalo grass is another tuff low water grass. St. Augustine and Zoysiagrass or others that will work well. Ask for them at your local nursery.

Water...the more the better especially during drought seasons. Of course follow city and local water restrictions.

Water during the early morning hours. Set your drip system to 7:00 am and water about 20 minutes every other day if restrictions allow it. Avoid watering during night time it could result in fungus problems.

Fertilize often. Use a good 16-8-8 analysis. The better maintained your lawn the less likely weeds and fungus problems will arise. Thatch and aerate during early spring or late winter.

Spotty brown spots could indicate grubs or fungus. A hazy bluish color is a sign of not enough water.

Friday, July 31, 2009

Annuals or Perennials Explained

What type of plants or flowers do you have. Depending on what part of the country you live in some perennials are annuals and vice versa.

I'll explain the difference between Annuals and Perennials below.

Annuals means usually only one growing season, completing its life cycle in one growing season. They could be seeds, flowering, or fruiting plants during that period. Most vegetables, are considered annuals. Wild flowers and weeds can also be annuals. The duration of a cycle is varied, it may be a few weeks to several months, depending on the species. Annual flowers and plants are used for that showy one time use in landscaping. They will have to be replaced the following season or cycle season.

Biennials these plants complete their life cycle in two growing seasons. The first season it produces only the basal leaves, grows its stem, produces flowers and fruits, then dies in the second season. The plant usually requires some special environmental condition or treatment such as exposure to a cold temperature to be induced to reproductive phase. Although annuals and biennials rarely become woody in regions where seasons rarely change, these plants may sometimes produce secondary growth in their stems and roots.

Perennials they are herbaceous plants that grow year round and through the adverse weather conditions. They will live through the summer, fall and winter seasons. They will also flower and fruit a variable number of years of vegetative growth past their second year. Many perennials survive the harsh cold season as dormant underground roots, rhizomes, bulbs, and tubers. Examples are ornamental trees, all varieties of bermuda grass, numerous landscaping shrubs, daylilies, and some bulbs.

Herbaceous Perennials are those with bascially, succulent stems. In climates that rarely change the tops die after a season of vegetative growth, sometimes dying down
In tropical or subtropical climates the tops of herbaceous perennials may die down, due to natural causes leading to a period of rest following flowering and seeding, or they may remain alive for long periods. Many bulb plants are considered herbaceous perennials.

Woody Perennials these are plants that become woody and soft. They are usually vines, groundcovers and some species of Roses. Some plants, however, growing as woody perennials in their growing habitat, take on the characteristics of herbaceous perennials when grown where their tops freeze to the ground in the winter but where the temperature is not enough to destroy their roots.

House plants these plants are adapted for indoor use. They are grown in containers, usually slow growing, and may be flowering or foliage plants. Here is a small list: Sansevieria, Rubber plants , Philodendrons, Aloe Vera plant, Pothos, and many more. You can make many annuals perennials by adapting them for indoor use. Example of houseplants here: Houseplants

Bedding plants are considered annuals they are used for planting outdoors in flower beds. They are either seedlings or started from seeds. They can be transplanted later in the growing season. Here are some good bedding plant examples: Chili, Petunia, Zinnias, Pansy, and Marigolds. Sometimes Geraniums will get through the winter season in the southwest.
More bedding plants here: Bedding Plants

Thanks from Paul Guzman

Monday, July 27, 2009

How to make your flowers bloom

Make your flowers bloom more often

What is it that makes flowers bloom? It really is simple. You need more phosphorus in your soil. So what is phosphorus? It is a natural occuring element or an inorganic phosphate. I could get into the whole scientific meaning but for our purpose this is what we really need to know. It make your plants, flowers, trees, and shrubs bloom. Without this element our world we be....well colorless.

Most fertilizers contain this element and is the middle number or symbol that describes the product. It is sometimes referred by the letter or symbol "P".

If your flowering plants are not flowering you are missing this natural occuring nurtient in your soil. Over time heavy watering or rain fall will depelete the natural occuring nurtients in the soil. This is why we need to fertilize our plants and trees.

Want to get more blooms more often? Purchase a fertilizer with a high content of phosphorus. Remember it is the middle number on most fertilizer products. And always read the instructions on the correct mixture and application of all fertilizer products. Too much and you could burn the root system. Too little and you will not get the results you are looking for.

Here are two products that I use. GreenLights Super bloom and Carl Pool's Br-61 works wonders. Ask for them at your local Greenhouse or Nursery.

Sunday, July 26, 2009

When should I fertilize my lawn

How often should I fertlize my lawn?

This is a question I get all the time at Color Your World Greenhouse. Here is my standard answer. Typically you should fertilize once when grass starts to turn green, again in early summer and once more in early fall. You are bascially wasting your money fertilizing warm seasonal grasses during winter. If you have evergreen lawns such as fescue or Kentucky blue grass you should apply a winterizer during the winter season.

If you want your lawn to look exceptionally good try to fertilizing once per month when your grass start to turn green.

The winterizer is NOT a fertilizer but more of a root stimulator to help lawn roots become much hardier.

Always apply the recommended mixture of fertilizer that your product recommends. A good mixture of 16-8-8 will work very well.

For more information about making your own look good all year long visit the follow website.

Thanks from Paul Guzman

Thursday, July 23, 2009

The Dog Days of Summer are Upon Us.

Wether you live in Las Cruces, NM or anywhere in the Continental United States.
Here are a few tips to keep your garden and a few specific problems from getting away from you during the month of August gardening. Your lawn, again usually three things or any combination of them may be the culprit(s) for making your lawn or patches of your lawn turn brown.

Check water first. It may be that your sprinkler is just not applying enough water to certain areas of your lawn. Remember if you can see your footprints in the lawn after you walk on it then it is time to get water on it asap. If the patchy brown areas of your lawn feel slightly "warmer" than the green areas of your lawn it usually means that particular area is not receiving enough moisture. It is best to core holes in this area, which will help deliver water right to the roots. The second item you may want to check will be for grubs.

There will be no mistaking these creatures. They are usually about the size of your thumb, creamy white with a brown head. They will feed on the grass roots to store up for winter and "hibernate" and emerge next year as adults.
These adults are the May and June beetles your see flying around at dusk in early summer. There are granular and liquid insecticides as well a natural beneficial nematodes to help control these critters.
The third item to check for will be a fungus. If you look closely at the blades of grass that are just around the edge of a dry patch you may notice lines or markings on each individual blade(s) of grass. If you have already checked for water or grubworms and are sure these two are not the problems this could be whats making your lawn turn brown.

There are also granualar and liquid fungicides available to help with this situation.
If you have any flowering trees or shrubs such as roses, crape myrtle, vitex, bird of paradise, oleander, among others it is very important to remove the "spent blossoms" as they appear. This action will help keep your flowering plants blooming up until frost. If this is not done the plants will spend a lot of energy into forming seeds at the expense of new blossoms.
Remember this usuallly works on just about any flowering plant. If your plants are looking a little pale in color you may want to incorporate some iron into your soil. Plants and lawns can lose some of their deep green color this time of year due to so much watering.
The soil may get leached out of it's nutrients by August so it is important to replace these minerals with chelated iron or Ironite. This not only puts a deep green back into the foliage but also makes flowers more vibrant.

If it has been more thant 5 to 6 weeks since you last fertilized your lawn then it is time. For this area a 16-8-8 fertilizer with iron, sulphur and zinc is recommended. This may be used on a fescue, rye or bermuda lawn, as well as trees and shrubs.
If you have any questions concerning "August Garden Tips" please email us at: us@guzmansgreenhouse.com

Here are a few tips to keep your garden and a few specific problems from getting away from you during the month of August gardening. Your lawn, again usually three things or any combination of them may be the culprit(s) for making your lawn or patches of your lawn turn brown.
Check water first. It may be that your sprinkler is just not applying enough water to certain areas of your lawn. Remember if you can see your footprints in the lawn after you walk on it then it is time to get water on it asap. If the patchy brown areas of your lawn feel slightly "warmer" than the green areas of your lawn it usually means that particular area is not receiving enough moisture. It is best to core holes in this area, which will help deliver water right to the roots. The second item you may want to check will be for grubs.
There will be no mistaking these creatures. They are usually about the size of your thumb, creamy white with a brown head. They will feed on the grass roots to store up for winter and "hibernate" and emerge next year as adults.
These adults are the May and June beetles your see flying around at dusk in early summer. There are granular and liquid insecticides as well a natural beneficial nematodes to help control these critters.

The third item to check for will be a fungus. If you look closely at the blades of grass that are just around the edge of a dry patch you may notice lines or markings on each individual blade(s) of grass. If you have already checked for water or grubworms and are sure these two are not the problems this could be whats making your lawn turn brown.

There are also granualar and liquid fungicides available to help with this situation.
If you have any flowering trees or shrubs such as roses, crape myrtle, vitex, bird of paradise, oleander, among others it is very important to remove the "spent blossoms" as they appear. This action will help keep your flowering plants blooming up until frost. If this is not done the plants will spend a lot of energy into forming seeds at the expense of new blossoms.
Remember this usually works on just about any flowering plant. If your plants are looking a little pale in color you may want to incorporate some iron into your soil. Plants and lawns can lose some of their deep green color this time of year due to so much watering.

The soil may get leached out of it's nutrients by August so it is important to replace these minerals with chelated iron or Ironite. This not only puts a deep green back into the foliage but also makes flowers more vibrant.

If it has been more than 5 to 6 weeks since you last fertilized your lawn then it is time. For this area a 16-8-8 fertilizer with iron, sulphur and zinc is recommended. This may be used on a fescue, rye or bermuda lawn, as well as trees and shrubs.

This article "Dog Days of Summer" is free to use as long as the following is attached: - Authors Gary and Paul Guzman Website: http://www.guzmansgreenhouse.com

Desert and Xeriscaping Plants in Las Cruces, NM

Color your world nursery has lots of desert landscaping plants. These plants and trees are very good for those who prefer water saving or drought tolerant landscaping. Here is a list of some plants and trees that require little water once established.

Honey Mesquite trees
Chilean Mesquite trees
Ash trees
Spanish and Desert sword plants
Texas Laurel or Mescal Bean
Bottle Brush
Vitex Tree
Desert Willow
Agave or Century Plants
Red and Yellow tip Yuccas
Even Lantana, Verbena and Crape Myrtles need only occasional after they are well estabhlished.

And thousands of other colorful landscaping plants to suit anyones needs.

Visit this website for some colorful picturs of some of these plants and trees:

Don't forget to visit Color Your World Nurseries located at: 540 N. Telshor Las Cruces NM. Or call us at 575 521-0496

Ask for Paul or Gary Guzman...we will be glad to help with any questions you might have about desert type plants.

Sunday, July 19, 2009

Vegetable Gardening Tips

Vegetable gardening tips for anyone.

Depending on the type of vegetable seeds you have they all need different times of dormancy lengths. Most annual seeds will of course germinate the following spring season. Seeds need air, moisture, and good temperature for germination.

When the seeds assimalite or absorbs water and food surrounding the inside of the seed it will then convert from starch to sugar. This is when the embryo (seed shell) will start to grow. Eventually it will burst out of its hard shell.

Your seeds will now began to take food and water from the outside world. This is also the time when you will need to do your best to increase the chances of growing these seeds into a vegetable, fruit, pepper for healthy edible food.

How to plant garden vegetables

Choose a good location. Preferably a west location as this side will have plenty of sun. Most vegetables like lots of sunlight. Especially green chile peppers, jalapenos and other southwestern chile.

Vegetables andChile plants love the long southwestern sunshine which is ideal for productive and abundant crop.

Rototill the land or at least dig up the soil with a shovel to loosen the dirt/soil.

Clear the spot or location of any large rocks, grass or weeds that may be in the area.

Chose a good vegetable garden fertilizer and apply it over the soil.

Chile peppers and vegetables do NOT like cooler temperatures. Plant them when temperatures are consistently above 50 degrees fahrenheit during the night.

A good fertilizer will have the following nutrients: Nitrogen (N), Phosphorus (P), and Potassium (K) are the three nutrients of concern to most gardeners. Calcium (Ca) and magnesium (Mg) are also needed. A good fertilizer will have a 5-10-5 mixture. Apply about 2 tablespoons per 50 sq ft.

Consider growing vegetables and chile seeds that are suitable for your area. Call your local Nursery for information on what will grow well in your area. Many nurseries have vegetables and chile already planted as seedlings. These type of plants will do better for the novice gardener since they are already set to plant and grow!

Remember its YOUR garden decide if you want vegetables seeds or grown container plants?

Water is essential to your vegetable garden. Use a good Drip System or water by hose on a daily basis especially in the desert southwest. About 1.5" of water per week should do.

Vegetables like low acid PH levels in the soil. You can always amend the soil with nutrients at a later date.

Weeds will suck up all the nutrients from the soil. So remember to pull out all weeds whenever possible.

Do NOT over water or have standing water over a long period of time. Over watering is just as bad as little or no water! Blossom end rot is where the tomatoes will look brown or black usually at the bottom. Click here for Blossom-End Rot Control

Try to buy tomatoes and chile that are resistant to "VFN". What is "VFN"? Following is what this means: V=Verticillium F=Fusarium, and N=nematodes. These are fungii that causes plants to wilt.

The most important part is constant viewing of your plants. If you don't look at them at least daily you are just wasting your time and money.


Thursday, July 16, 2009

How to care for houseplants

Are you having difficulity growing the following houseplants: Aralia, Hibiscus, Cyclamen, Anthurium, Bromeliad, Croton, Bougainvillea, Orchids, Ficus, Assorted Ferns and many others?

Most houseplants like "indirect" sunlight. Use them in front of a window covered by venitian blinds, or underneath a skylight. Choose plants that like low light such as Pothos, Philodendrons, and Boston ferns. Always purchase healthy vigorous plants from a reputable Nursery. (Avoid Big Store Nurseries)
Be sure to fertilize your houseplants with a good "houseplant" fertilizer. Apply fertilizer every month during spring and summer. Very little fertilizing during the winter months. Do NOT fertilize dormant plants. A good 20-20-20 all purpose plant food will work. We recommend "Peters all purpose plant food".

Call your local nursery for other recommended fertilizers.
Watering depends on the type of houseplant you want, but as a general rule keep the top of container moist. Do NOT over water. Make sure all containers drain well. For Super Blooms try "Green Lights" 12-55-6. Be sure to read instruction carefully.
Check your plants at least once per week, look for pests, insects etc... Brown tip leaves could indicate over watering. Be sure to isolate the plant whenever insects are present. Use a good all purpose insect spray. We recommend "Schultz Expert Gardener Insect Spray". Be sure the product is specifically labeled for both the pest and plant species.

Organic gardening works great
Clean your plants often, remove dead or dying leaves. Dumping of an over infested plant may be the best solution. Mealybugs are a common houseplant problem. These are small white bugs that attach themselves to the leaves.
All houseplants require some natural lighting and sunlight is the best method. Remember most houseplants that bloom require MORE sunlight. Try to use south facing windows for houseplants that produce colorful blooms.

Ferns, Pothos, and Spathiphyllum like low light. Dark corners and bathrooms are an ideal place.
Over watering is just as bad as little or no water! Place your finger in the soil. If it is moist it probably does not need water.
Visit Guzmansgreenhouse.com for more free gardening information.

Sunday, May 31, 2009

Everything Now 40% off at Guzman's Greenhouse on University

Guzman's Greenhouse in Las Cruces (University location only) 40% off sale on all items in stock.

In mid 2008 the land located at 655 University avenue was sold. Our lease located on the same property will no longer be available. We will have to move our entire stock to the Telshore location located at 540 Telshore.

As most folks know moving from one place to another is a BIG chore. Moving thousands of items to the other store could become a logistical nightmare. However we will do our best to sell as many items before June 25th. This will make us very happy and our customers even more so because of the huge savings on all of our garden products. The less stuff we have to move the better. Our loss is your gain!

After June 25th 2009 we will only have one store located at 540 Telshore Las Cruces, NM. Gary and Lydia Guzman (owners) are currently looking for land on the west side of the city for a future "Color Your World II" garden center.

We will continue to do our best to provide all of our customers with the best garden products and advice at the Telshor location.
If you have any questions or comments please post them on the form below

Paul Guzman

Wednesday, May 27, 2009

Where to purchase roses in Las Cruces, NM

Roses in Las Cruces, NM.

Color Your World Nurseries have thousands of roses. Climbing, Shrub, Floribunda's, Hybrids and Tree roses available at the University Location in Las Cruces (655 University Ave. )

Caring for roses is not as hard as some people may believe. Below is what they need. They like lots of water especially when first planted.They need at least 6 hours of sun each day. They like rich lose loamy soil.

Make sure water drains well. Roses should not be left in standing water, even during dormant winter months. Doing so can have adverse problems such as powerdy mildew or other diseases. They can be planted alone or with other companion perennials. Be sure to give then enough room to fill out. Normally around 3-4ft. between plants.

Remember to plant roses where falling snow, ice, or any other debris will not damage plants. The Best time to prune growing roses are from December through early Feburary. Deep watering is better than shallow water. Use a good mulch to retain water. Compost, bark, straw or other similiar materials discourage weeds! Use good composted soil when planting roses. Typically roses should be fertilzed once in early spring, summer and early fall. DO not fertilize during colder climates or during the winter season.

Most of our roses come from Jackson and Perkins and are considered the best wholesale rose nursery in the world. They are in peat pot containers and are watered and fertilized for outstanding bloom color and selection.

If you have questions about our roses or any plants call us today at 575 521 0496. Or contact us at: http://www.guzmansgreenhouse.com/contact.htm

From now until the end of June (2009) our Jackson and Perkins roses will be on sale at 30% off. So come by today for the best selection.

Thursday, May 21, 2009

Oleanders for the southwest

Oleanders for Southwestern Landscaping.

Oleanders are beautiful Desert Plants. They come in several colors the hardy red is what most people purchase. The species is in the genus Nerium, and is also known as Rosa, Adelfa, Olean, Laurier Rose, and Aiwa. Oleanders will bloom all summer long but mostly during the mid spring season. They do not like climates that are consistenly below 20degress f. during the winter season. They also love hot climates even reflected heat from a wall or cement entrances. Most will grow to about 20ft tall and about 15ft wide. Here is a list of the most common Oleanders.

  1. Hardy Red Oleander (Red)

  2. Sister Agnes Oleander (white)

  3. White Sands Oleander (Shorter Oleander)

  4. Pink Oleander (Very hardy and grows faster than the other varities)

  5. Salmon Pink (A lighter pink variety but much more colorful than the pink one)

Their is a dwarf variety that grows to about 4-5ft tall and wide. But will only come in red blooms. Not quite as hardy as the regular red oleander.

There is also the pink and white varities that have the same cold tolerances. These shrubs are very hardy in the southwest and are tolerant of droughts. They can also take lots of water which is ideal for landscape ponding areas.

Remember Oleanders like hot climates and can be grown in colder areas but will require 1-2 years of care before they will thrive.
Color your world Nurseries will usually have this type of plant. Or ask you local Nursery for such "Oleander".

This plant is highly toxic so....keep pets and children from chewing or eating them.

Monday, May 18, 2009

Spruce Tree Information

Spruce trees for the southwest (confier trees).
Alberta Spruce (Picea glauca 'Conica') - Landscape your home with something different. This Evergreen conifer has a symmetrical, pyramidal look to it. It has green to lime green pine needles. Very slow grower. Plant It in partial sun and is an excellent pine for that pine forest garden look. Excellent as a tub plant or miniature Christmas tree. In the Southwest this confier needs shade...underneath a larger shade tree will work great. It looks good in a formal type of garden setting. You can also plant this tree in a container and it requires more care. It will only grow to about 6 feet to 8 feet tall and 4 to 5 feet wide; larger with age. Can be used as an indoor Christmas Tree then planted outside after the Holidays. Cone shaped dwarf conifer trees displaying a dense dark green needles. Remember this tree is NOT drought tolerant.USDA Zones 6-9

The Hoop's blue spruce (Picea pungens 'Hoopsii') - This spruce tree does well in the desert southwest. Most folks in the southwest think it won't grow but with a little more care and water it will do great. This tree is a bright blue and more so with new growth. Pyramidal form that holds stiff horizontal branches with dense silvery-blue mature needles. Full sun. Fast-growing to 30 to 50 feet high, 10 to 20 feet wide. It is not drought tolerant so it does reguire regular watering especially during the hot summer southwestern months for extensive root system growth. Howerver watering can be reduced after establishment usually 2-3 years down the road. Feed with a general purpose fertilizer before new growth begins in spring.USDA Zones 6-9

Colorado Blue Spruce (Picea pungens 'Glauca') - A good spruce tree that will do great in the southwest. This Evergreen conifer and has a symmetrical, pyramidal form. Blue grey pine needles. Moderate grower to 40 to 60 feet high, 10 to 20 feet wide. It can take full sun and is an excellent pine for that forest look. This tree is not drought tolerant so it does reguire regular watering especially during the hot summer southwestern months for extensive root system growth. However watering can be reduced after establishment usually 2-3 years down the road. Feed with a general purpose fertilizer before new growth begins in spring.USDA Zones 6-9
There are other types of evergreen trees that will do well in the desert southwest. The Afgan, Austrain, Japanese and the Pinon tree.
(All photos courtesy of Monrovia Wholesale Nurseries).

Color Your World Nurseries in Las Cruces, NM will usually have these trees and other evergreens in stock. Call us today at (575) 521-0496

Thursday, May 14, 2009

Colorful Desert Plants

Great Looking colorful desert plants.

Some of the most colorful looking perennial or annual plants in the southwest are Lantana Pants. There are over 1500 types of Lantana. The most common is the camara or the montevidensis, and there are hundreds of hybrids.

The most hardiest in the southwest is the trailing gold Lantana. It will bloom all summer long and tolerates extreme heat...matter of fact is loves the hot sun even reflective sun from walls and cement driveways. It can spread to about 4ft. wide and about 1ft. tall. Excellent as a groundcover or stand alone plant.

The "Dallas Red" is another great looking plant that blooms a dark red color all summer. It does grow to about 3ft. tall and 5ft. wide and not quite a hardy as the trailing yellow lantana. Can easily be used in a container for decorative front entrance plant.

Radiation Bush Lantana is another bright colorful plant that is well suited for the desert southwest. They have profuse color year round from rich orange-red flowers! Useful as Excellent low hedge or accent shrub. It also attracts butterflies. Tolerates heat. Full sun. Moderate grower to 4 to 6 feet tall and wide.

Things to remember about desert lantana plants. If you live in an area that gets temperatures below 32degrees F. you will need to trim them down at ground level and cover them with mulch. Be sure to water about once or twice per month during the winter season. It is best to use lantana in containers and bring them indoors if you live in areas that get temperatures in the teens or below. Lantana plants are very hardy once established. Water almost daily when first planted. Once established they require only moderate to low water. Fertilize with a high level of phosphorus only if blooms do not show up during the summer months.

Paul Guzman

Friday, April 17, 2009

How to care for a lawn

How to care for your lawn. The Secret to a great looking lawn requires using a winterizer in late fall or early winter. Lawn winterizer is not a fertilizer. It is a vitamin for the root system of any type of lawn. You want a good healthy root system during the winter months. You will see the difference in spring, and summer seasons.

You should also aerate your lawn at least once per year. If you have clayish or hard type soil you should do it at least twice per year.

Be careful with aerating too much too early as this will help weed seeds to germinate.

Dethatching is done to remove old dead grass leaves and other debris that hinders grass growth. This should be done during the early spring and be sure to use a good lawn dethacher or hard rake. If you have a large lawn you may have to hire a good maintenance landscaping company. Avoid your neighbors kid trying to make a few extra dollars.

Watering your lawn. Always follow city water restrictions when watering. If you have bermuda type grass you can generally water 2-3 times per week about 15-20 minutes on a sprinkler system. If you have all season type grass such as Kentucky blue grass or fescue I recommend at least every day at 20-30 minutes on a sprinkler system if water restrictions are allowed.

Grub control. These ugly type worms get under the surface of the grass and devour your lawns root system. Once that happens the grass has no way of getting water or nutrients to the blades. You need to do your best to kill these worms quickly.

If you have brown spots in your lawn you may have these worms. Dig around the brown spot area about 2-4 inches down. These worms are large about the size of a large thumb with an ugly brown head. Use a good grub conrtol type of pesticide perferably in a granular type form. Trichlorfon is also an effective pesticide for grubs be sure to read labels before applying.

Keep weeds out of your lawn! Those awful weeds that seem to always popup in your lawn right around early spring. Use Fertilome "Weed-Out Plus". This Kills Dandelions, Clover, Crabgrass, Nutsedge, Chickweed, Spurge and many other Lawn Weeds. Ask for it at your friendly local nursery. It really does work! You can also use herbicides to kill unwanted weeds, grass and or plants. Be sure to read instructions thoroughly.

Do you have fungus your my lawn? It is very possible. Watering at night or late evening promotes lawn fungus. Too much watering can also add to the problem. You can tell if you have fungus if you see dark brown spots on your lawn. Fungus feeds on dead vegetation even on dead wood, stumps, limbs, and leaves that is why it is important to detach in the spring.

Use a fungicide to help prevent, remove and kill fungus on your lawn. Ask for it at your local nursery store.

These are great lawn caring tips. For a more in depth look at lawn care you should visit the following page. Lawn Care Video.

If you have any questions be sure to use the form below.
Thanks from Paul Guzman.

Tuesday, April 14, 2009

Caring for roses

Great rose caring tips.

Roses are beautiful so many colors and varieties. Roses thrive in rich loamy loose soil. They like full sun and regular watering. Most will bloom in early spring through early summer. The hot summer heat will usually prevent most roses from blooming in mid summer. However there is one variety that will bloom all summer long. It is called the "Knockout Rose". It is a shrub rose that grows to about 4-5 ft. tall with dark pink rosettes or flowers. Ask for it at your friendly nursery.

Remember to fertilize when your rose plants leafs out. Do not fertilize during the winter months. WHY - Because you are basically wasting your money. This holds true for most plants that go dormant during the winter.

Fertilize again after first bloom. In the southwest things go dormant rather late...so the latest date is around early November. Foliage will start to grow around mid-late March. Always use a good Rose Food Fertilizer as these types of fertilizers are best suited for your roses.

Always follow a strict watering schedule. Newly planted roses should be watered everyday for the first 20 days or so. Then use a drip system about 3 times per week. You drip timer should be set about 15-20 minutes.

Use a good mulch to retain water. Compost, bark, straw or other similiar materials discourage weeds!

Trimming you roses. Only prune and trim if there is need too. Prune old dying dark brown branches and limbs. Prune off all expired blooms and only down to the down to the third or fourth limb.

Yellowing of leaves means you need fertilizer with high level or nitrogen. Not enough blooms means your soil is lacking phosphorus.

If you notice insects such as aphids, thrips, leafhoppers in your roses you can also use a good Rose Food Systemic Insecticide Fertilizer. The systemic insecticde will kill almost any type of insect that is in your roses it will also feed your roses. Ask your local Nursery for "Systemic Insecticde Rose food".

Remember to always read and follow instructions on every fertilizer product.

Types of roses

Floribunda is a busy rose with a clustered bloom habit. Usually more than 3 buds at the top of numerous stems.

Climbing Rose. The climbing rose is named for their climbing habit, they grow best along trellises, arbors, walls or chain link fences. The blooms are somewhat smaller than other types of roses.

Shrub Roses. They are known for there trouble free and easy to grow maintenance. They grow about 5ft tall and the blooms are usually large and only one bloom per stem.
Click here for more information about the knockout rose.
Paul Guzman

Friday, April 10, 2009

Shade Trees for the Desert Southwest

Shade Trees for the Desert Southwest. What are the best Shade trees for hot full sun.

Lately folks at our retail gardening store are looking for large shade type trees. And like most of us they want instant gratification. Yea, during the summer they want instant shade and they want it now. Of course money is a big factor in purchasing shade trees.
Did you know you can reduce the need for an air conditioner in a home or building by as much as 25 percent, that's a big savings on your electric bill! On the average it is about 10 degrees cooler underneath a good shade tree.

If your landscaping budget is tight I suggest purchasing a small to medium sized shade tree at your local nursery. Not only will it cost less but you will have the ability to deliver and plant if yourself, thus saving you even more money. If money is not a factor (you lucky dog) then the larger the better.

Below are descriptions and types of shade trees that will do well in the southwestern heat.

The weeping willow tree or Salix babylonica: This tree grows extremely fast can double sometimes triple in size about 2-3 years. They can grow to about 50-60ft. tall and about 30-40 ft wide. They have long pendular type limbs that hang low giving it that "weeping" look. The leaves are small and narrow but numerous which is ideal for shade. It is one of the first trees to leaf out during early spring and one of the last to lose it leaves in late fall. The wood is soft which makes susceptible to insects. This tree can adapt to almost any type of soil but does best in moist well watered soil.

The Ash Trees or Fraxinus species are great full sun trees.

There are many type of Ash trees. Arizona, Modesto, White, Fan Tex, and Raywood are some of the more popular. The Ash tree grows to about 50ft. tall and 30ft. wide and an excellent drought tolerant shade tree that turns a golden yellow in the fall. The Raywood turn a dark red color. Moderate grower about 1-2ft. per year. I recommend the male trees as the female will produce the fruit which is messy. The limbs are somewhat brittle when the tree gets older thus making it more of a maintenance problem. They do best in full sun.

Live Oak or Quercus virginiana: Is another great desert full sun tree. The Southern Live Oak - Can grow up to 70-80ft. This type of tree is slow growing but it is an evergeen in the southwest, massive shade tree once fully mature. Its horizontal branches form a broad rounded canopy. Can take full sun needs moderate watering once established. They like well drained soil and have numerous acorns that fall during the spring.

More Southwestern Desert Gardening Information at: Guzman's Greenhouse.com

Thursday, April 09, 2009

How to get rid of Grub Worms

Man I hate grub worms! For one thing they are very grusome, ugly, looking worms. Take a look at the photo on the left. Aren't they ugly? Early spring is when these creatures start to do their damage. They eat the root system of trees, shrubs, plants and mainly lawns.

The grubs that you see in your lawn are the larvae of Japanese beetles, June beetles, and chafers. These grubs are usually shaped like the letter C. The have a white color and a dark brown head. They are about the size of a large human thumb.

It is interesting to note that well maintained and heavily watered lawns will attract Japanese beetles.

They can also do alot of damage during the fall season but spring is the best time to eliminate them. Here are the signs of grub damage.

Yellow round spots on your lawn.
Trees and shrubs looking like they need water.
Unusual amount of birds feeding on your lawn.
Skunks and Racoons digging around your lawn.

One product that I use myself is Bayer Advanced Season Long Grub Control it will kill grubs all season long and it also promotes Vigorous Root Growth. IT comes in an easy-to-use granules container. Color Your World Nurseries will usually carry this product in stock. Or Click on the link below to purchase online.

Bayer Season Long Grub Control - 12 lb. #700710S

Tuesday, March 31, 2009

Lantana and Red Bird of Paradise Plants

I get this question all the time at our retail gardening store. "Why do my lantana and red bird of paradise plants die during the winter months"?

The Lantana and Red bird of paradise have spectacular colorful looking blooms throughout the early summer and late fall months. However they do not like temperatures below 28 degrees fahrenheit.

In the desert southwest we will experience temps down to about 20 degrees or so and sometimes into the upper teens.

The best advice is to cut them back anytime between January and March. Be sure to cut them down close to the ground. Especially younger smaller plants. It is best to keep the crown covered with mulch until night time temps are above 50 degrees f.

Larger more established Red bird of paradise plants do not need to be trimmed to the ground. Just trim about 1/4 from the top.

Once the weather warms up significantly you may remove the mulch around them so that the sun can heat up the soil around the roots.

Be patient, and look for small green buds to begin emerging. Once this happens and the weather stays warm both the lantana and bird of paradise will begin to grow at a tremendous rate of speed!

You may the feed them lightly with your choice of fertilizer. In most cases they will exceed the previous years' growth, as they already have an extensive root system. Remember lots of heat and patience in early spring will be rewarded with lots of color all summer long.

The Lantana is also commonly called a Shrub Verbena. All Lantanas are tough, resilient plants that thrive in hot weather and bloom profusely from spring until frost.
Follow the same instructions as the Red Bird of Paradise. Trim down in early December or January and cover with ample supply of mulch. Be patient...they will sprout out when the night time temperatures are consistently about 50 degrees f.
Happy Gardening

Gary and Paul Guzman are the authors of this garden post.

Friday, March 20, 2009

Mexican Elder Tree Care

Mexican Elder Tree (Sambucus mexicana)

You see these trees all around Las Cruces and Southern New Mexico. (Although they do grow in California, Arizona, Texas and the rest of the Southern states).They have bright green foliage early in spring, followed by small clusters of fragrant creamy off white flowers. They have gnarly bark and may look like a large bonsai.
These interesting looking trees provide quick shade and food for birds. They seem to look their best in the cooler months of the year especially when young.

These trees are easily trained into multi or single trunk specimen. You can prune at anytime of year to help keep it's desired shape. It is actually best to prune regularly to avoid cutting back large limbs. They can become quite dense so proper thining may also be neccessary.

They are susceptible to aphids, borers, and powdery mildew. You can prevent the insects with a systemic soil drench or insect spray labelled for aphids. You can treat the powdery mildew with an all purpose fungicide. Powdery mildew will usually occur if the tree has some shade or if there is a long period of very humid or rainy weather. (We should be so lucky.) The bark is quite "pulpy" and will absorb water. With this in mind it is best not to sprinkle or wet the bark so make sure your sprinking system does not hit the bark with its spray. If this happens the bark may begin to swell and peel off the tree.

Mexican Elder trees go "dormant" during the heat of the summer. This is when they look their worst. Feeding them late in spring or early summer is crucial to minimizing the effects of it's "summer dormancy". Don't give up, if they don't look quite healthy. The first few years this is normal, and the tree will look great upon the return of cooler weather. As they mature the trees seem to take the summer heat better.

Although these trees can produce quite a bit of litter, leaves, flower petals, and berries throughout the year, it's quick shade production and beauty make up for it.

Mexican Elder Tree Photo

Gary Guzman

Monday, March 09, 2009

How to get rid of weeds

How to get rid of weeds in the Las Cruces, New Mexico Area.

Rain in Las Cruces, NM. Yea...It's great to finally get a few sprinkles of the wet stuff from the rain gods (03-09-09). Why do we treasure these few droplets of moisture? Because we get so little of it and it starts the beginning of the spring season. Perennials and annuals start to bloom, trees, shrubs and dormant bermuda lawns start to green up. But there is one big draw back. Weeds....they pop out and grow faster than a teenage kid coming out of puberty.

There are several things you can do to stop or prevent those annoying weeds from popping out all over the place.

1. Pre-emergence apply now (late winter) to keep weed seeds from germinating during early spring and summer. Remember this product will only inhibit the growth of seed growth and will NOT kill existing weeds. Ask for it at your local Nursery.

2. Pull them out by hand as soon as you see them. My least favorite but works the best. It is important to know pulling out by hand will also get the roots out. This means they will not re-generate new growth again. Weeds that get chopped off at the top will usually grow back stronger and larger due to the fact that the root system is still intact.

3. Apply a herbicide that will kill weeds but will not harm your grass. There are many products to chose from. Ferti Lome's Weed out plus works well in Bermuda and Fescue type of lawns. It works best upon the second or third application. Be sure to apply at the recommended rate via the label instructions.

4. Keep your lawn healthy and lucious by following a strict water and fertilizing schedule. Fertilize at least once in spring, summer and early fall. A good healthly lawn will usually choke out other weeds from coming out.

BTW if you really want a lawn that will be the envy of all your neighbors I highly recommend you check out this site: http://www.guzmansgreenhouse.com/lawn-care.htm

Thanks from Paul Guzman
Be sure to visit guzmansgreenhouse.com for more gardening advice.

Saturday, February 28, 2009

Colorful Plants for the southwest

Living in the desert Southwest can present alot of gardening problems. This is one question I get all the time. "What plants can I use for more color that does not require alot of water?" Below are some great plants that will bloom fantastic colors, and will help keep that water bill down.

It is important to remember that even desert need water almost daily when first planted. Usually after the first year you can remove the drip line or cut your watering to at least half.

Colorful Perennial Plants for the Desert Southwest

Spanish Broom: Sometimes called the Desert Broom. Likes Full Sun - USDA zones 4a-9
Fantastic beautiful spring yellow flowers. Semi-Evergreen shrub grows up to 8ft. tall about 4ft. wide. Most cities in the southwest use this for their landscaping needs.

Green Cloud Sage: Scientific Name: Leucophyllum frutescens Sun: Full Zones 8-7a or 7b Green Cloud Sage beautiful purple summer blooms. Evergreen low to moderate watering. Can used as a stand alone shrub or hedge. There are numerous varities. Texas sage, Heavenly cloud, compacta (small), all require very little water once established.

Chaparral/Mexican: Is a sage and likes full Sun - USDA Zone 9a:
Salvia Clevelandii or Chaparral Sage - Beautiful long blooms about 5 - 6ft tall. Moderate water and excellent entrance accent shrub.

Red Bird of Paradise: Full Sun - USDA Zone: 8b-10
Beautiful bright red/orange blooms. Fast growing plant 6 to 15 feet tall and wide. Sold as annual in the lower elevations of the southwest. Be sure to trim down during winter season. Cover with mulch and they will pop out when early summer begins.

Damanitia: Full Sun - USDA Zones 8-10.
Damanitia beautiful yellow blooms almost all summer long. Great for landscaping front entrance. Easy care low water requirements. This plant will bloom profously in spring and once again in fall.

Apache Plume: Scientific Name: Fallugia paradoxa.
Loves full Sun. A Southwestern high desert native shrub does great in southern New Mexico. Open upright plants produce a dense, shrubby character with fine leaves on twiggy branches for an overall gray-green appearance. Blooms in early to spring with showy white flowers spectacular under moonlight. Very drought tolerant

Desert Willow Scientific Name: Chilopsis linearis. Likes full Sun - USDA Zone 7 - 9
Desert willow grows to about 25ft tall. If you are looking to attract hummingbirds then this is the tree to get. Beautiful light purple blooms very hardy shrub or tree. Very drought tolerant once established.

Be sure to visit guzmansgreenhouse.com for more desert type gardening information

Wednesday, February 25, 2009

How to cultivate vegetables

Cultivation of vegetables are to get rid of weeds, and to stimulate growth by:

(1) letting air into the soil and freeing unavailable plant food, and
(2) by conserving moisture.

Weeds, the gardener of any experience does not need to be told the importance of keeping his crops clean. He has learned from bitter and costly experience the price of letting them get anything resembling a start. He knows that one or two days' growth, after they are well up, followed perhaps by a day or so of rain, may easily double or treble the work of cleaning a patch of onions or carrots, and that where weeds have attained any size they cannot be taken out of sowed crops without doing a great deal of injury. He also realizes, or should, that every day's growth means just so much available plant food stolen from under the very roots of his legitimate crops.

Instead of letting the weeds get away with any plant food, he should be furnishing more, for clean and frequent cultivation will not only break the soil up mechanically, but let in air, moisture and heat all essential in effecting those chemical changes necessary to convert non- available into available plant food. Long before the science in the case was discovered, the soil cultivators had learned by observation the necessity of keeping the soil nicely loosened about their growing crops. Even the lanky and untutored aborigine saw to it that his squaw not only put a bad fish under the hill of maize but plied her shell hoe over it. Plants need to breathe. Their roots need air. You might as well expect to find the rosy glow of happiness on the wan cheeks of a cotton-mill child slave as to expect to see the luxuriant dark green of healthy plant life in a suffocated garden.

Important as the question of air is, that of water ranks beside it. You may not see at first what the matter of frequent cultivation has to do with water. But let us stop a moment and look into it. Take a strip of blotting paper, dip one end in water, and watch the moisture run up hill, soak up through the blotter. The scientists have labeled that "capillary attraction" the water crawls up little invisible tubes formed by the texture of the blotter. Now take a similar piece, cut it across, hold the two cut edges firmly together, and try it again. The moisture refuses to cross the line: the connection has been severed.

In the same way the water stored in the soil after a rain begins at once to escape again into the atmosphere. That on the surface evaporates first, and that which has soaked in begins to soak in through the soil to the surface. It is leaving your garden, through the millions of soil tubes, just as surely as if you had a two-inch pipe and a gasoline engine, pumping it into the gutter night and day! Save your garden by stopping the waste. It is the easiest thing in the world to do cut the pipe in two. By frequent cultivation of the surface soil not more than one or two inches deep for most small vegetables the soil tubes are kept broken, and a mulch of dust is maintained. Try to get over every part of your garden, especially where it is not shaded, once in every ten days or two weeks. Does that seem like too much work? You can push your wheel hoe through, and thus keep the dust mulch as a constant protection, as fast as you can walk. If you wait for the weeds, you will nearly have to crawl through, doing more or less harm by disturbing your growing plants, losing all the plant food (and they will take the cream) which they have consumed, and actually putting in more hours of infinitely more disagreeable work. If the beginner at gardening has not been convinced by the facts given, there is only one thing left to convince him experience.

Having given so much space to the reason for constant care in this matter, the question of methods naturally follows. Get a wheel hoe. The simplest sorts will not only save you an infinite amount of time and work, but do the work better, very much better than it can be done by hand. You can grow good vegetables, especially if your garden is a very small one, without one of these labor-savers, but I can assure you that you will never regret the small investment necessary to procure it.

With a wheel hoe, the work of preserving the soil mulch becomes very simple. If one has not a wheel hoe, for small areas very rapid work can be done with the scuffle hoe.

The matter of keeping weeds cleaned out of the rows and between the plants in the rows is not so quickly accomplished. Where hand-work is necessary, let it be done at once. Here are a few practical suggestions that will reduce this work to a minimum,

(1) Get at this work while the ground is soft; as soon as the soil begins to dry out after a rain is the best time. Under such conditions the weeds will pull out by the roots, without breaking off.

(2) Immediately before weeding, go over the rows with a wheel hoe, cutting shallow, but just as close as possible, leaving a narrow, plainly visible strip which must be hand- weeded. The best tool for this purpose is the double wheel hoe with disc attachment, or hoes for large plants. (3) See to it that not only the weeds are pulled but that every inch of soil surface is broken up. It is fully as important that the weeds just sprouting be destroyed, as that the larger ones be pulled up. One stroke of the weeder or the fingers will destroy a hundred weed seedlings in less time than one weed can be pulled out after it gets a good start. (4) Use one of the small hand-weeders until you become skilled with it. Not only may more work be done but the fingers will be saved unnecessary wear.

The skilful use of the wheel hoe can be acquired through practice only. The first thing to learn is that it is necessary to watch the wheels only: the blades, disc or rakes will take care of themselves.

The operation of "hilling" consists in drawing up the soil about the stems of growing plants, usually at the time of second or third hoeing. It used to be the practice to hill everything that could be hilled "up to the eyebrows," but it has gradually been discarded for what is termed "level culture"; and you will readily see the reason, from what has been said about the escape of moisture from the surface of the soil; for of course the two upper sides of the hill, which may be represented by an equilateral triangle with one side horizontal, give more exposed surface than the level surface represented by the base. In wet soils or seasons hilling may be advisable, but very seldom otherwise. It has the additional disadvantage of making it difficult to maintain the soil mulch which is so desirable.

Be sure to rotate your crops.

There is another thing to be considered in making each vegetable do its best, and that is crop rotation, or the following of any vegetable with a different sort at the next planting.

With some vegetables, such as cabbage, this is almost imperative, and practically all are helped by it. Even onions, which are popularly supposed to be the proving exception to the rule, are healthier, and do as well after some other crop, provided the soil is as finely pulverized and rich as a previous crop of onions would leave it.

THe rules of rotating your crops:

(1) Crops of the same vegetable, or vegetables of the same family (such as turnips and cabbage) should not follow each other.

(2) Vegetables that feed near the surface, like corn, should follow deep-rooting crops.

(3) Vines or leaf crops should follow root crops.

(4) Quick-growing crops should follow those occupying the land all season.

The right way is to attend this matter when making the planting plan. You will then have time to do it properly, and will need to give it no further thought for a year.