If you're thinking about starting a garden, the first thing you need to consider is what type of garden you will have. There are many different choices and often it can be hard to pick just one, but hopefully you can narrow it down. But by narrowing it down, you'll make the gardening experience easier on yourself and the plants.
If all your plants are similar, then it shouldn't be very hard to care for them all. So here are some of the main garden ideas for you to choose from. If you're just looking for something to look nice in your yard, you'll want a flower garden. These are usually filled with perennial flower. Perennial flowers are flowers which stay healthy year-round. They're basically weeds because of their hardiness, only nice looking. Different areas and climates have different flowers which are considered perennials. If you do a quick internet search for your area, you can probably find a list of flowers that will bring your flower garden to life. These usually only require work in the planting stage - after that, the flower take care of themselves. The only downside to this is that you don't have any product to show for it.
Another choice for your garden is to have a vegetable garden. These usually require a little more work and research than a flower garden, but can be much more rewarding. No matter what time of the year it is, you can usually find one vegetable that is still prospering. That way you can have your garden be giving you produce almost every day of the year! When starting a vegetable garden, you should build it with the thought in mind that you will be adding more types of veggies in later. This will help your expandability. Once all your current crops are out of season, you won't be stuck with almost nowhere to put the new crops. A vegetable garden is ideal for someone who wants some produce, but doesn't want to devote every waking hour to perfecting their garden (see below.)
One of the more difficult types of gardens to manage is a fruit garden. It's definitely the most high-maintenance. When growing fruits, many more pests will be attracted due to the sweetness. You not only have to deal with having just the right dirt and fertilizer, you have to deal with choosing a pesticide that won't kill whoever eats the fruits. Your fruit garden will probably not produce year-round. The soil needs to be just right for the plants to grow, and putting in another crop during itsoff-season could be disastrous to its growth process. If you're willing to put lots of work into maintaining a garden, then a fruit garden could be a good choice for you.
So now that I've outlined some of the main garden types that people choose, I hope you can make a good decision. Basically, the garden type comes down to what kind of product you want, and how much work you want to do.
Southwestern Greenhouse Gardening. Learn what you need to know about gardening in the Southwest.
Sunday, October 18, 2009
Friday, October 09, 2009
What type of colorful plants to use for winter
Colorful Winter Plants
Camellias do well in a winter garden. For some reason many folks in the southwest have forgotten about these plants very colorful winter plants. These amazing plants produce masses of pink, white and red blossoms over a long season in winter and throughout early spring.
Hellebores
Another winter plant for the garden is the hellebore. It is also called the winter rose. The foliage can withstand cold temperatures even snow. The most common are tthe Helleborus x hybridus (or H. orientalis). They come in greenish to pure white, spotted pinks to deep maroon and almost black. Attractive forms are sought and many, often expensive, named varieties can be found. They come back up in seed form in early spring.
Pansies are another wonderul colorful cold hardy plant. They come in numerous colors and sizes. The nice thing about pansies are the numerous variety of colors. They are available in almost all home garden nurseries. They come in white, yellow, purple and blue are old fashioned favorites. The hybrids have made the color array much larger. Ask for them at your local friendly Nursery.
Other cold hardy plants are stock, viola's and snapdragons they are not quite as cold hardy as pansies but they can take temperatures down to about 34 degress farenheight.
If you are in the Las Cruces Southwest area be sure to visit Color Your World Nurseries located at 540 N. Telshore or call us at 575 521 0496.
Thanks from Paul and Gary Guzman
Guzman's Garden Center
Camellias do well in a winter garden. For some reason many folks in the southwest have forgotten about these plants very colorful winter plants. These amazing plants produce masses of pink, white and red blossoms over a long season in winter and throughout early spring.
Hellebores
Another winter plant for the garden is the hellebore. It is also called the winter rose. The foliage can withstand cold temperatures even snow. The most common are tthe Helleborus x hybridus (or H. orientalis). They come in greenish to pure white, spotted pinks to deep maroon and almost black. Attractive forms are sought and many, often expensive, named varieties can be found. They come back up in seed form in early spring.
Pansies are another wonderul colorful cold hardy plant. They come in numerous colors and sizes. The nice thing about pansies are the numerous variety of colors. They are available in almost all home garden nurseries. They come in white, yellow, purple and blue are old fashioned favorites. The hybrids have made the color array much larger. Ask for them at your local friendly Nursery.
Other cold hardy plants are stock, viola's and snapdragons they are not quite as cold hardy as pansies but they can take temperatures down to about 34 degress farenheight.
If you are in the Las Cruces Southwest area be sure to visit Color Your World Nurseries located at 540 N. Telshore or call us at 575 521 0496.
Thanks from Paul and Gary Guzman
Guzman's Garden Center
Thursday, September 17, 2009
Easy Care Houseplant Tips
Houseplant problems and how to correct them.
Tips of leaves turning brown at the tip.
Humidity is probably too low
Maybe over fertilizering can cause leaf burn.
You might have too much excess salt in soil.
Too Much Fluoride in your water.
Leaves Turning Yellow.
You need more nitrogen (fertlizer) in your soil.
You might be overwatering.
You could have hot or cold draft.
The lower leaves will naturally turn yellow then fall off. This is the natural aging process.
Leaves fall off from the plant
You need to add some humidity into the air.
You could be overwatering or underwatering...symptoms are very similiar.
Plants need time to adjust to new environment.
The foliage on new plant stay small
Too low or high light can cause leaves to remain small.
You might need to fertilize your plant use a houseplant fertilizer.
Growth of plants seems long and leggy.
You may be overfertilizing
Place the plant where it get more light.
Plant does not seem to grow.
Possibly temperature is too cool. Put in a warmer place.
Place plant where it gets more light.
The Flower Buds always fall off
There could be a draft in the room cold or hot.
Up the humidity.
Potting soil needs more water. Do NOT let it go dry.
Do NOT move the plant around keep it in one area.
You may need more phosphorus in your soil.
Most houseplants will need water at least once per day, especially during the hot summer months. Deep watering 4-5 times per week is better than light watering once per day. You can cut back on watering during the winter months and little to no fertilizing during the cold weather months.
Tips of leaves turning brown at the tip.
Humidity is probably too low
Maybe over fertilizering can cause leaf burn.
You might have too much excess salt in soil.
Too Much Fluoride in your water.
Leaves Turning Yellow.
You need more nitrogen (fertlizer) in your soil.
You might be overwatering.
You could have hot or cold draft.
The lower leaves will naturally turn yellow then fall off. This is the natural aging process.
Leaves fall off from the plant
You need to add some humidity into the air.
You could be overwatering or underwatering...symptoms are very similiar.
Plants need time to adjust to new environment.
The foliage on new plant stay small
Too low or high light can cause leaves to remain small.
You might need to fertilize your plant use a houseplant fertilizer.
Growth of plants seems long and leggy.
You may be overfertilizing
Place the plant where it get more light.
Plant does not seem to grow.
Possibly temperature is too cool. Put in a warmer place.
Place plant where it gets more light.
The Flower Buds always fall off
There could be a draft in the room cold or hot.
Up the humidity.
Potting soil needs more water. Do NOT let it go dry.
Do NOT move the plant around keep it in one area.
You may need more phosphorus in your soil.
Most houseplants will need water at least once per day, especially during the hot summer months. Deep watering 4-5 times per week is better than light watering once per day. You can cut back on watering during the winter months and little to no fertilizing during the cold weather months.
Wednesday, September 09, 2009
Fall Fruit Tree Care and Pruning
Easy Fruit Tree care and Pruning Tips
Here are a number of things you should do to your fruit trees before winter to ensure the best possible production next season.
Fruit trees need so many chilling hours in order to produce fruit. Call and ask your friendly nursery what kind of fruit trees do well in your area. Also call you local extension agency for the number of chilling hours in your area.
Fig trees are productive with or without heavy pruning. Pruning fruit trees brings fear and concern to southwestern gardeners. Pruning and training your fruit trees are important to creating an arrangement that will yield the maximum crop of fruit.
Pruning tools can be disinfected with a 10% solution of bleach before and after use to prevent diseases from spreading with the cuts that you make. Pruning in the late summer or fall may encourage the tree to continue growing. The pruning of the tree in early years is called tree training as you have to prune the tree so it is a triangle shape with a point at the top. This means that no part of the tree is blocking another part from the sun.
Also there may be variations in the best pruning methods depending on where you live. Start your pruning by removing any dead, damaged or diseased branches. Fruit trees need regular pruning and insect treatments to keep them healthy and by proper pruning and care will encourage optimal growth and most importantly a good healthy large harvest during the fall season.
Always remove any diseased or damaged branches, any crossing branches, any narrow angling branches, and one of the branches in a fork. If you want healthy fruit crops, spray your trees with Neem Oil to control pests and diseases. This should be done in early spring to prevent a large infestation of insects. You can also use a systemic insecticide to get rid of fruit tree insects. However be sure to read the label for the proper time to apply this insecticide.
Here are a number of things you should do to your fruit trees before winter to ensure the best possible production next season.
Fruit trees need so many chilling hours in order to produce fruit. Call and ask your friendly nursery what kind of fruit trees do well in your area. Also call you local extension agency for the number of chilling hours in your area.
Fig trees are productive with or without heavy pruning. Pruning fruit trees brings fear and concern to southwestern gardeners. Pruning and training your fruit trees are important to creating an arrangement that will yield the maximum crop of fruit.
Pruning tools can be disinfected with a 10% solution of bleach before and after use to prevent diseases from spreading with the cuts that you make. Pruning in the late summer or fall may encourage the tree to continue growing. The pruning of the tree in early years is called tree training as you have to prune the tree so it is a triangle shape with a point at the top. This means that no part of the tree is blocking another part from the sun.
Also there may be variations in the best pruning methods depending on where you live. Start your pruning by removing any dead, damaged or diseased branches. Fruit trees need regular pruning and insect treatments to keep them healthy and by proper pruning and care will encourage optimal growth and most importantly a good healthy large harvest during the fall season.
Always remove any diseased or damaged branches, any crossing branches, any narrow angling branches, and one of the branches in a fork. If you want healthy fruit crops, spray your trees with Neem Oil to control pests and diseases. This should be done in early spring to prevent a large infestation of insects. You can also use a systemic insecticide to get rid of fruit tree insects. However be sure to read the label for the proper time to apply this insecticide.
Monday, August 31, 2009
Outdoor furniture in Las Cruces
Outdoor decor in Southwestern New Mexico.
Have you ever bought outdoor furniture at you local big mart stores? The following year it looks old or worse it breaks apart. The southwestern New Mexico heat will deteriorate this cheap outdoor furniture quickly. How do I know...I bought some myself and you and I know it never lasts.
There is a new type of outdoor decor that can last almost indefinitely and it comes from Hanamint.com. Their stuff looks so good you might be tempted to used it for indoor furniture. This fine outdoor furniture has a 10 year warranty. Hanamint warrants the powder coat finish for three (3) years from date of purchase, including peeling or blistering. (1) year for wood, cushions, sling fabrics and umbrella frames. This limited warranty applies to residential use only.
Hanamint makes it easy to enhance the beauty of the outdoor room with its innovative and classic designs. With over 10 years in the outdoor market, Hanamint provides high-quality products with outstanding workmanship, supported with the highest standards in customer service, business integrity and strategic partnerships.
You can see some of this furniture at Color Your World Nurseries in Las Cruces, NM. Ask to see the Hanamint Outdoor Decor Catalog. Or check out some the products right here on our webpage - outdoor furniture.
Sunday, August 30, 2009
New Mexico Gardening Tips
Gardening in New Mexico particularly the lower elevations of the Southwest poses special problems. The soil is sandy and dry and rain water is in short supply. However there are some things you can do to increase fruit, flowers and greenery if you come from this part of the country.
- Water - You should increase watering times on your garden and lawn. Especially during the hot summer months. Non native plants and trees are especially vulnerable to heat scorch and stress. Use a good drip system to water your trees and shrubs. Make certain the drip emitters are directly over the root ball of all plants. Set your water timer to about every other day about 20 minutes each time. Newly planted shrubs and trees need water twice per day for about the first month.
- Fertilize more often. Trees and shrubs require more nitrogen and potash. Flowering plants need more phosphorus. Fertilizers with these nutrients should be purchased at a local greenhouse or nursery. Be sure to follow directions accordingly.
- Use good rich composted material when planting. Compost should be back-filled into the hole along with current soil. About a 50/50 percent ratio.
- Use a good mulch on top of soil to help keep moisture in and weeds out. Eucalyptus and Cedar mulch work well. These type of mulches also help build a barrier to keep insects out.
- You should also increase watering times for your lawn (be sure to follow city restrictions). A healthy well kept lawn will keep away weeds and diseases. Watering should be done in the early morning hours. Do NOT water during night time as this may induce fungus problems.
- Fruit and Pecan trees need a fertilize with zinc. Be sure to purchase a fertilizer with at least a 5% of this essential tree nutrient.
- Inspect your plants regularly don't just plant and forget. Go out and enjoy the day...check each tree, plants, shrub flowers for insects or diseases. Early detection of any problems can reduce the chances of your plants dying or looking bad.
For more southwestern gardening tips visit guzmansgreenhouse.com
Paul Guzman
Las Cruces Water Fountains
Water Fountains are very popular items in the Southwest. The cool relaxing atmosphere it creates during the hot summer months is ideal for Southwestern outdoor decor. Almost all water fountains now come with pumps that will re-circulate water from the bottom bowl upwards towards the top and back down via non viewable hoses.
Most of our Fountains come from Henri Studios. Henri Studio is the world leader in original handcrafted cast stone products. Their unique Fountains, Statuary and Outdoor furnishings are one of a kind in design – form and function. Visit their website for more information:
Maintenance on these fountains is low and cleaning should be done at the end of the fall season. You do have to empty all water before freezing temperatures arrive. More information about water fountain care can be found here: Waterfountaincare.
At Color Your World Nursery in Las Cruces we have lots of water fountains they are 30% off and on sale until mid September 2009. We also have a large catalog with hundreds of other fountains that you can choose from. You can give us a call at 575 521-0496 and ask for water fountain information. We also offer setup and delivery options. We will be glad to help.
Paul Guzman
Sunday, August 23, 2009
Time to harvest vegetables
When is it time to harvest vegetables?
It is important to note that vegetables will not grow as big, and tall as the supermarket kind. Commercial vegetables growers use insecticides, pesticides, and fertilizers that are much stronger than what the local nurseries have. This is one reason why "organic gardening" has grown in popularity in recent years. Read this article about organic gardening.
Below are some common vegetables and tips on when and how they should be harvested.
Asparagus - The Asparagus spears should be about 8 inches tall and about as thick as your small finger. Snap them off at the dirt or ground level and new spears will continue to grow. Stop harvesting about 4-6 weeks after the initial harvest, to allow the plants to produce foliage and food for themselves.
Snap Beans - Be sure to pick before the you can see the seeds bulging. They should snap easily into two separate beans. Check your crop daily sometimes they will mature in one afternoon.
Beets - They are ready any time after you see the beets shoulders sticking out at the soil line. Beets can be harvested when they are small, medium or large. It is up to you.
Broccoli - You can actually eat the unopened flower buds of broccoli, so check frequently, especially as the weather warms up, to ensure you don’t let the flower heads bloom. Harvest when the buds are about the size of a pea.
Brussel Sprouts - They should be at least 1 inch. in diameter before harvesting. Harvest by twisting off or cutting the sprout from the stem. These vegetables mature from the bottom up.
Cabbage - The head of the Cabbage should be almost hard before harvesting . Make sure to harvest when they are ready otherwise they will continue to split.
Carrots - My Favorite. The tops of the carrot will show at the dirt or soil line and you can judge when the diameter looks right for your variety. If the diameter looks good, chances are the length is fine too. But you will need to pull one out to be sure. Carrots can be left in the ground once mature. A light frost can add to the flavor of the crop.
Cauliflower - Remember do not expect your Cauliflower to be as big as the supermarket. Harvest when the head looks full and while the curds of the head are still smooth.
Chile's - Lots of varieties. Habaneros should be firm and about 2-4 inches long. Long green Chile should also be firm and sunken in. They are about 4-6 inches long. Over ripen long green Chile will turn red. This is OK since you can now make red Chile sauce. More chile information right here: Chile Tips
Corn - The silks have to form first usually about 3-4 weeks or so. They will turn dry and brown. The kernels should display a white milky substance when pricked.
Cucumber - You should check them every day. Harvest them when they are young . Timing and length will vary with variety. The should be firm and smooth to the touch. Over ripen cucumbers will taste bitter this can happen before they start to turn yellow.
Eggplant - Should be firm and rigid to the touch . You should always cut them off don't pull out.
Garlic - They are ready to be harvested when they turn brown. Be sure to clean off completely and allow them to dry before storing.
Kale - Kale can actually be harvested throughout the season, but they should be green and rigid to the touch. Kale will taste much better during the cool season. Kale is also a great ornamental plant. Great blue green color finishing its cycle in late winter. Usually February in the Southwest.
Leeks - When Leeks reach about 1 inch. in diameter you know it's time to harvest.
Lettuce - Should be harvested once the head feels full and firm with a gentle squeeze. Hot weather will cause it to bolt or go to seed rather than filling out.
It is important to note that vegetables will not grow as big, and tall as the supermarket kind. Commercial vegetables growers use insecticides, pesticides, and fertilizers that are much stronger than what the local nurseries have. This is one reason why "organic gardening" has grown in popularity in recent years. Read this article about organic gardening.
Below are some common vegetables and tips on when and how they should be harvested.
Asparagus - The Asparagus spears should be about 8 inches tall and about as thick as your small finger. Snap them off at the dirt or ground level and new spears will continue to grow. Stop harvesting about 4-6 weeks after the initial harvest, to allow the plants to produce foliage and food for themselves.
Snap Beans - Be sure to pick before the you can see the seeds bulging. They should snap easily into two separate beans. Check your crop daily sometimes they will mature in one afternoon.
Beets - They are ready any time after you see the beets shoulders sticking out at the soil line. Beets can be harvested when they are small, medium or large. It is up to you.
Broccoli - You can actually eat the unopened flower buds of broccoli, so check frequently, especially as the weather warms up, to ensure you don’t let the flower heads bloom. Harvest when the buds are about the size of a pea.
Brussel Sprouts - They should be at least 1 inch. in diameter before harvesting. Harvest by twisting off or cutting the sprout from the stem. These vegetables mature from the bottom up.
Cabbage - The head of the Cabbage should be almost hard before harvesting . Make sure to harvest when they are ready otherwise they will continue to split.
Carrots - My Favorite. The tops of the carrot will show at the dirt or soil line and you can judge when the diameter looks right for your variety. If the diameter looks good, chances are the length is fine too. But you will need to pull one out to be sure. Carrots can be left in the ground once mature. A light frost can add to the flavor of the crop.
Cauliflower - Remember do not expect your Cauliflower to be as big as the supermarket. Harvest when the head looks full and while the curds of the head are still smooth.
Chile's - Lots of varieties. Habaneros should be firm and about 2-4 inches long. Long green Chile should also be firm and sunken in. They are about 4-6 inches long. Over ripen long green Chile will turn red. This is OK since you can now make red Chile sauce. More chile information right here: Chile Tips
Corn - The silks have to form first usually about 3-4 weeks or so. They will turn dry and brown. The kernels should display a white milky substance when pricked.
Cucumber - You should check them every day. Harvest them when they are young . Timing and length will vary with variety. The should be firm and smooth to the touch. Over ripen cucumbers will taste bitter this can happen before they start to turn yellow.
Eggplant - Should be firm and rigid to the touch . You should always cut them off don't pull out.
Garlic - They are ready to be harvested when they turn brown. Be sure to clean off completely and allow them to dry before storing.
Kale - Kale can actually be harvested throughout the season, but they should be green and rigid to the touch. Kale will taste much better during the cool season. Kale is also a great ornamental plant. Great blue green color finishing its cycle in late winter. Usually February in the Southwest.
Leeks - When Leeks reach about 1 inch. in diameter you know it's time to harvest.
Lettuce - Should be harvested once the head feels full and firm with a gentle squeeze. Hot weather will cause it to bolt or go to seed rather than filling out.
Harvesting vegetables can be a big chore make it much easier using the garden scoot or cart.
The adjustable garden seat swivels 360 degrees. Pneumatic tires roll smoothly on grass, cement or landscaping rock. Steering handle guides cart around corners and eliminates the need to get up. Get yours today at:
Sunday, August 02, 2009
Lawn care for the Southwest
How to have a picture perfect lawn in the Southwest
Lawns in the Southwest require some special requirements than other parts of the U.S.
For one thing we get very little rain. Some parts of the desert southwest get only 2 maybe 3 inches per year. Wow... that is a staggering stat considering Seattle Washingtion gets on the average about 36.2 inches per year.
So what can the average Joe living in the lower elevations of the desert do to keep his lawn looking good.
Choose drought tolerant grasses. Bermuda varities will work great. Princess77 is a great water saver and looks good throughout the hot summer months. Buffalo grass is another tuff low water grass. St. Augustine and Zoysiagrass or others that will work well. Ask for them at your local nursery.
Water...the more the better especially during drought seasons. Of course follow city and local water restrictions.
Water during the early morning hours. Set your drip system to 7:00 am and water about 20 minutes every other day if restrictions allow it. Avoid watering during night time it could result in fungus problems.
Fertilize often. Use a good 16-8-8 analysis. The better maintained your lawn the less likely weeds and fungus problems will arise. Thatch and aerate during early spring or late winter.
Spotty brown spots could indicate grubs or fungus. A hazy bluish color is a sign of not enough water.
Lawns in the Southwest require some special requirements than other parts of the U.S.
For one thing we get very little rain. Some parts of the desert southwest get only 2 maybe 3 inches per year. Wow... that is a staggering stat considering Seattle Washingtion gets on the average about 36.2 inches per year.
So what can the average Joe living in the lower elevations of the desert do to keep his lawn looking good.
Choose drought tolerant grasses. Bermuda varities will work great. Princess77 is a great water saver and looks good throughout the hot summer months. Buffalo grass is another tuff low water grass. St. Augustine and Zoysiagrass or others that will work well. Ask for them at your local nursery.
Water...the more the better especially during drought seasons. Of course follow city and local water restrictions.
Water during the early morning hours. Set your drip system to 7:00 am and water about 20 minutes every other day if restrictions allow it. Avoid watering during night time it could result in fungus problems.
Fertilize often. Use a good 16-8-8 analysis. The better maintained your lawn the less likely weeds and fungus problems will arise. Thatch and aerate during early spring or late winter.
Spotty brown spots could indicate grubs or fungus. A hazy bluish color is a sign of not enough water.
Friday, July 31, 2009
Annuals or Perennials Explained
What type of plants or flowers do you have. Depending on what part of the country you live in some perennials are annuals and vice versa.
I'll explain the difference between Annuals and Perennials below.
Annuals means usually only one growing season, completing its life cycle in one growing season. They could be seeds, flowering, or fruiting plants during that period. Most vegetables, are considered annuals. Wild flowers and weeds can also be annuals. The duration of a cycle is varied, it may be a few weeks to several months, depending on the species. Annual flowers and plants are used for that showy one time use in landscaping. They will have to be replaced the following season or cycle season.
Biennials these plants complete their life cycle in two growing seasons. The first season it produces only the basal leaves, grows its stem, produces flowers and fruits, then dies in the second season. The plant usually requires some special environmental condition or treatment such as exposure to a cold temperature to be induced to reproductive phase. Although annuals and biennials rarely become woody in regions where seasons rarely change, these plants may sometimes produce secondary growth in their stems and roots.
Perennials they are herbaceous plants that grow year round and through the adverse weather conditions. They will live through the summer, fall and winter seasons. They will also flower and fruit a variable number of years of vegetative growth past their second year. Many perennials survive the harsh cold season as dormant underground roots, rhizomes, bulbs, and tubers. Examples are ornamental trees, all varieties of bermuda grass, numerous landscaping shrubs, daylilies, and some bulbs.
Herbaceous Perennials are those with bascially, succulent stems. In climates that rarely change the tops die after a season of vegetative growth, sometimes dying down
In tropical or subtropical climates the tops of herbaceous perennials may die down, due to natural causes leading to a period of rest following flowering and seeding, or they may remain alive for long periods. Many bulb plants are considered herbaceous perennials.
Woody Perennials these are plants that become woody and soft. They are usually vines, groundcovers and some species of Roses. Some plants, however, growing as woody perennials in their growing habitat, take on the characteristics of herbaceous perennials when grown where their tops freeze to the ground in the winter but where the temperature is not enough to destroy their roots.
House plants these plants are adapted for indoor use. They are grown in containers, usually slow growing, and may be flowering or foliage plants. Here is a small list: Sansevieria, Rubber plants , Philodendrons, Aloe Vera plant, Pothos, and many more. You can make many annuals perennials by adapting them for indoor use. Example of houseplants here: Houseplants
Bedding plants are considered annuals they are used for planting outdoors in flower beds. They are either seedlings or started from seeds. They can be transplanted later in the growing season. Here are some good bedding plant examples: Chili, Petunia, Zinnias, Pansy, and Marigolds. Sometimes Geraniums will get through the winter season in the southwest.
More bedding plants here: Bedding Plants
Thanks from Paul Guzman
I'll explain the difference between Annuals and Perennials below.
Annuals means usually only one growing season, completing its life cycle in one growing season. They could be seeds, flowering, or fruiting plants during that period. Most vegetables, are considered annuals. Wild flowers and weeds can also be annuals. The duration of a cycle is varied, it may be a few weeks to several months, depending on the species. Annual flowers and plants are used for that showy one time use in landscaping. They will have to be replaced the following season or cycle season.
Biennials these plants complete their life cycle in two growing seasons. The first season it produces only the basal leaves, grows its stem, produces flowers and fruits, then dies in the second season. The plant usually requires some special environmental condition or treatment such as exposure to a cold temperature to be induced to reproductive phase. Although annuals and biennials rarely become woody in regions where seasons rarely change, these plants may sometimes produce secondary growth in their stems and roots.
Perennials they are herbaceous plants that grow year round and through the adverse weather conditions. They will live through the summer, fall and winter seasons. They will also flower and fruit a variable number of years of vegetative growth past their second year. Many perennials survive the harsh cold season as dormant underground roots, rhizomes, bulbs, and tubers. Examples are ornamental trees, all varieties of bermuda grass, numerous landscaping shrubs, daylilies, and some bulbs.
Herbaceous Perennials are those with bascially, succulent stems. In climates that rarely change the tops die after a season of vegetative growth, sometimes dying down
In tropical or subtropical climates the tops of herbaceous perennials may die down, due to natural causes leading to a period of rest following flowering and seeding, or they may remain alive for long periods. Many bulb plants are considered herbaceous perennials.
Woody Perennials these are plants that become woody and soft. They are usually vines, groundcovers and some species of Roses. Some plants, however, growing as woody perennials in their growing habitat, take on the characteristics of herbaceous perennials when grown where their tops freeze to the ground in the winter but where the temperature is not enough to destroy their roots.
House plants these plants are adapted for indoor use. They are grown in containers, usually slow growing, and may be flowering or foliage plants. Here is a small list: Sansevieria, Rubber plants , Philodendrons, Aloe Vera plant, Pothos, and many more. You can make many annuals perennials by adapting them for indoor use. Example of houseplants here: Houseplants
Bedding plants are considered annuals they are used for planting outdoors in flower beds. They are either seedlings or started from seeds. They can be transplanted later in the growing season. Here are some good bedding plant examples: Chili, Petunia, Zinnias, Pansy, and Marigolds. Sometimes Geraniums will get through the winter season in the southwest.
More bedding plants here: Bedding Plants
Thanks from Paul Guzman
Monday, July 27, 2009
How to make your flowers bloom
Make your flowers bloom more often
What is it that makes flowers bloom? It really is simple. You need more phosphorus in your soil. So what is phosphorus? It is a natural occuring element or an inorganic phosphate. I could get into the whole scientific meaning but for our purpose this is what we really need to know. It make your plants, flowers, trees, and shrubs bloom. Without this element our world we be....well colorless.
Most fertilizers contain this element and is the middle number or symbol that describes the product. It is sometimes referred by the letter or symbol "P".
If your flowering plants are not flowering you are missing this natural occuring nurtient in your soil. Over time heavy watering or rain fall will depelete the natural occuring nurtients in the soil. This is why we need to fertilize our plants and trees.
Want to get more blooms more often? Purchase a fertilizer with a high content of phosphorus. Remember it is the middle number on most fertilizer products. And always read the instructions on the correct mixture and application of all fertilizer products. Too much and you could burn the root system. Too little and you will not get the results you are looking for.
Here are two products that I use. GreenLights Super bloom and Carl Pool's Br-61 works wonders. Ask for them at your local Greenhouse or Nursery.
Sunday, July 26, 2009
When should I fertilize my lawn
How often should I fertlize my lawn?
This is a question I get all the time at Color Your World Greenhouse. Here is my standard answer. Typically you should fertilize once when grass starts to turn green, again in early summer and once more in early fall. You are bascially wasting your money fertilizing warm seasonal grasses during winter. If you have evergreen lawns such as fescue or Kentucky blue grass you should apply a winterizer during the winter season.
If you want your lawn to look exceptionally good try to fertilizing once per month when your grass start to turn green.
The winterizer is NOT a fertilizer but more of a root stimulator to help lawn roots become much hardier.
Always apply the recommended mixture of fertilizer that your product recommends. A good mixture of 16-8-8 will work very well.
For more information about making your own look good all year long visit the follow website.
http://www.guzmansgreenhouse.com/lawn-care.htm
Thanks from Paul Guzman
This is a question I get all the time at Color Your World Greenhouse. Here is my standard answer. Typically you should fertilize once when grass starts to turn green, again in early summer and once more in early fall. You are bascially wasting your money fertilizing warm seasonal grasses during winter. If you have evergreen lawns such as fescue or Kentucky blue grass you should apply a winterizer during the winter season.
If you want your lawn to look exceptionally good try to fertilizing once per month when your grass start to turn green.
The winterizer is NOT a fertilizer but more of a root stimulator to help lawn roots become much hardier.
Always apply the recommended mixture of fertilizer that your product recommends. A good mixture of 16-8-8 will work very well.
For more information about making your own look good all year long visit the follow website.
http://www.guzmansgreenhouse.com/lawn-care.htm
Thanks from Paul Guzman
Thursday, July 23, 2009
The Dog Days of Summer are Upon Us.
Wether you live in Las Cruces, NM or anywhere in the Continental United States.
Here are a few tips to keep your garden and a few specific problems from getting away from you during the month of August gardening. Your lawn, again usually three things or any combination of them may be the culprit(s) for making your lawn or patches of your lawn turn brown.
Check water first. It may be that your sprinkler is just not applying enough water to certain areas of your lawn. Remember if you can see your footprints in the lawn after you walk on it then it is time to get water on it asap. If the patchy brown areas of your lawn feel slightly "warmer" than the green areas of your lawn it usually means that particular area is not receiving enough moisture. It is best to core holes in this area, which will help deliver water right to the roots. The second item you may want to check will be for grubs.
There will be no mistaking these creatures. They are usually about the size of your thumb, creamy white with a brown head. They will feed on the grass roots to store up for winter and "hibernate" and emerge next year as adults.
These adults are the May and June beetles your see flying around at dusk in early summer. There are granular and liquid insecticides as well a natural beneficial nematodes to help control these critters.
The third item to check for will be a fungus. If you look closely at the blades of grass that are just around the edge of a dry patch you may notice lines or markings on each individual blade(s) of grass. If you have already checked for water or grubworms and are sure these two are not the problems this could be whats making your lawn turn brown.
There are also granualar and liquid fungicides available to help with this situation.
If you have any flowering trees or shrubs such as roses, crape myrtle, vitex, bird of paradise, oleander, among others it is very important to remove the "spent blossoms" as they appear. This action will help keep your flowering plants blooming up until frost. If this is not done the plants will spend a lot of energy into forming seeds at the expense of new blossoms.
Remember this usuallly works on just about any flowering plant. If your plants are looking a little pale in color you may want to incorporate some iron into your soil. Plants and lawns can lose some of their deep green color this time of year due to so much watering.
The soil may get leached out of it's nutrients by August so it is important to replace these minerals with chelated iron or Ironite. This not only puts a deep green back into the foliage but also makes flowers more vibrant.
If it has been more thant 5 to 6 weeks since you last fertilized your lawn then it is time. For this area a 16-8-8 fertilizer with iron, sulphur and zinc is recommended. This may be used on a fescue, rye or bermuda lawn, as well as trees and shrubs.
If you have any questions concerning "August Garden Tips" please email us at: us@guzmansgreenhouse.com
Here are a few tips to keep your garden and a few specific problems from getting away from you during the month of August gardening. Your lawn, again usually three things or any combination of them may be the culprit(s) for making your lawn or patches of your lawn turn brown.
Check water first. It may be that your sprinkler is just not applying enough water to certain areas of your lawn. Remember if you can see your footprints in the lawn after you walk on it then it is time to get water on it asap. If the patchy brown areas of your lawn feel slightly "warmer" than the green areas of your lawn it usually means that particular area is not receiving enough moisture. It is best to core holes in this area, which will help deliver water right to the roots. The second item you may want to check will be for grubs.
There will be no mistaking these creatures. They are usually about the size of your thumb, creamy white with a brown head. They will feed on the grass roots to store up for winter and "hibernate" and emerge next year as adults.
These adults are the May and June beetles your see flying around at dusk in early summer. There are granular and liquid insecticides as well a natural beneficial nematodes to help control these critters.
The third item to check for will be a fungus. If you look closely at the blades of grass that are just around the edge of a dry patch you may notice lines or markings on each individual blade(s) of grass. If you have already checked for water or grubworms and are sure these two are not the problems this could be whats making your lawn turn brown.
There are also granualar and liquid fungicides available to help with this situation.
If you have any flowering trees or shrubs such as roses, crape myrtle, vitex, bird of paradise, oleander, among others it is very important to remove the "spent blossoms" as they appear. This action will help keep your flowering plants blooming up until frost. If this is not done the plants will spend a lot of energy into forming seeds at the expense of new blossoms.
Remember this usually works on just about any flowering plant. If your plants are looking a little pale in color you may want to incorporate some iron into your soil. Plants and lawns can lose some of their deep green color this time of year due to so much watering.
The soil may get leached out of it's nutrients by August so it is important to replace these minerals with chelated iron or Ironite. This not only puts a deep green back into the foliage but also makes flowers more vibrant.
If it has been more than 5 to 6 weeks since you last fertilized your lawn then it is time. For this area a 16-8-8 fertilizer with iron, sulphur and zinc is recommended. This may be used on a fescue, rye or bermuda lawn, as well as trees and shrubs.
This article "Dog Days of Summer" is free to use as long as the following is attached: - Authors Gary and Paul Guzman Website: http://www.guzmansgreenhouse.com
Wether you live in Las Cruces, NM or anywhere in the Continental United States.
Here are a few tips to keep your garden and a few specific problems from getting away from you during the month of August gardening. Your lawn, again usually three things or any combination of them may be the culprit(s) for making your lawn or patches of your lawn turn brown.
Check water first. It may be that your sprinkler is just not applying enough water to certain areas of your lawn. Remember if you can see your footprints in the lawn after you walk on it then it is time to get water on it asap. If the patchy brown areas of your lawn feel slightly "warmer" than the green areas of your lawn it usually means that particular area is not receiving enough moisture. It is best to core holes in this area, which will help deliver water right to the roots. The second item you may want to check will be for grubs.
There will be no mistaking these creatures. They are usually about the size of your thumb, creamy white with a brown head. They will feed on the grass roots to store up for winter and "hibernate" and emerge next year as adults.
These adults are the May and June beetles your see flying around at dusk in early summer. There are granular and liquid insecticides as well a natural beneficial nematodes to help control these critters.
The third item to check for will be a fungus. If you look closely at the blades of grass that are just around the edge of a dry patch you may notice lines or markings on each individual blade(s) of grass. If you have already checked for water or grubworms and are sure these two are not the problems this could be whats making your lawn turn brown.
There are also granualar and liquid fungicides available to help with this situation.
If you have any flowering trees or shrubs such as roses, crape myrtle, vitex, bird of paradise, oleander, among others it is very important to remove the "spent blossoms" as they appear. This action will help keep your flowering plants blooming up until frost. If this is not done the plants will spend a lot of energy into forming seeds at the expense of new blossoms.
Remember this usuallly works on just about any flowering plant. If your plants are looking a little pale in color you may want to incorporate some iron into your soil. Plants and lawns can lose some of their deep green color this time of year due to so much watering.
The soil may get leached out of it's nutrients by August so it is important to replace these minerals with chelated iron or Ironite. This not only puts a deep green back into the foliage but also makes flowers more vibrant.
If it has been more thant 5 to 6 weeks since you last fertilized your lawn then it is time. For this area a 16-8-8 fertilizer with iron, sulphur and zinc is recommended. This may be used on a fescue, rye or bermuda lawn, as well as trees and shrubs.
If you have any questions concerning "August Garden Tips" please email us at: us@guzmansgreenhouse.com
Here are a few tips to keep your garden and a few specific problems from getting away from you during the month of August gardening. Your lawn, again usually three things or any combination of them may be the culprit(s) for making your lawn or patches of your lawn turn brown.
Check water first. It may be that your sprinkler is just not applying enough water to certain areas of your lawn. Remember if you can see your footprints in the lawn after you walk on it then it is time to get water on it asap. If the patchy brown areas of your lawn feel slightly "warmer" than the green areas of your lawn it usually means that particular area is not receiving enough moisture. It is best to core holes in this area, which will help deliver water right to the roots. The second item you may want to check will be for grubs.
There will be no mistaking these creatures. They are usually about the size of your thumb, creamy white with a brown head. They will feed on the grass roots to store up for winter and "hibernate" and emerge next year as adults.
These adults are the May and June beetles your see flying around at dusk in early summer. There are granular and liquid insecticides as well a natural beneficial nematodes to help control these critters.
The third item to check for will be a fungus. If you look closely at the blades of grass that are just around the edge of a dry patch you may notice lines or markings on each individual blade(s) of grass. If you have already checked for water or grubworms and are sure these two are not the problems this could be whats making your lawn turn brown.
There are also granualar and liquid fungicides available to help with this situation.
If you have any flowering trees or shrubs such as roses, crape myrtle, vitex, bird of paradise, oleander, among others it is very important to remove the "spent blossoms" as they appear. This action will help keep your flowering plants blooming up until frost. If this is not done the plants will spend a lot of energy into forming seeds at the expense of new blossoms.
Remember this usually works on just about any flowering plant. If your plants are looking a little pale in color you may want to incorporate some iron into your soil. Plants and lawns can lose some of their deep green color this time of year due to so much watering.
The soil may get leached out of it's nutrients by August so it is important to replace these minerals with chelated iron or Ironite. This not only puts a deep green back into the foliage but also makes flowers more vibrant.
If it has been more than 5 to 6 weeks since you last fertilized your lawn then it is time. For this area a 16-8-8 fertilizer with iron, sulphur and zinc is recommended. This may be used on a fescue, rye or bermuda lawn, as well as trees and shrubs.
This article "Dog Days of Summer" is free to use as long as the following is attached: - Authors Gary and Paul Guzman Website: http://www.guzmansgreenhouse.com
Desert and Xeriscaping Plants in Las Cruces, NM
Color your world nursery has lots of desert landscaping plants. These plants and trees are very good for those who prefer water saving or drought tolerant landscaping. Here is a list of some plants and trees that require little water once established.
Honey Mesquite trees
Chilean Mesquite trees
Ash trees
Spanish and Desert sword plants
Texas Laurel or Mescal Bean
Bottle Brush
Vitex Tree
Desert Willow
Agave or Century Plants
Red and Yellow tip Yuccas
Sotol
Even Lantana, Verbena and Crape Myrtles need only occasional after they are well estabhlished.
And thousands of other colorful landscaping plants to suit anyones needs.
Visit this website for some colorful picturs of some of these plants and trees:
http://www.guzmansgreenhouse.com/desert-trees/southwest-trees.htm
Don't forget to visit Color Your World Nurseries located at: 540 N. Telshor Las Cruces NM. Or call us at 575 521-0496
Ask for Paul or Gary Guzman...we will be glad to help with any questions you might have about desert type plants.
Honey Mesquite trees
Chilean Mesquite trees
Ash trees
Spanish and Desert sword plants
Texas Laurel or Mescal Bean
Bottle Brush
Vitex Tree
Desert Willow
Agave or Century Plants
Red and Yellow tip Yuccas
Sotol
Even Lantana, Verbena and Crape Myrtles need only occasional after they are well estabhlished.
And thousands of other colorful landscaping plants to suit anyones needs.
Visit this website for some colorful picturs of some of these plants and trees:
http://www.guzmansgreenhouse.com/desert-trees/southwest-trees.htm
Don't forget to visit Color Your World Nurseries located at: 540 N. Telshor Las Cruces NM. Or call us at 575 521-0496
Ask for Paul or Gary Guzman...we will be glad to help with any questions you might have about desert type plants.
Sunday, July 19, 2009
Vegetable Gardening Tips
Vegetable gardening tips for anyone.
Depending on the type of vegetable seeds you have they all need different times of dormancy lengths. Most annual seeds will of course germinate the following spring season. Seeds need air, moisture, and good temperature for germination.
When the seeds assimalite or absorbs water and food surrounding the inside of the seed it will then convert from starch to sugar. This is when the embryo (seed shell) will start to grow. Eventually it will burst out of its hard shell.
Your seeds will now began to take food and water from the outside world. This is also the time when you will need to do your best to increase the chances of growing these seeds into a vegetable, fruit, pepper for healthy edible food.
How to plant garden vegetables
Choose a good location. Preferably a west location as this side will have plenty of sun. Most vegetables like lots of sunlight. Especially green chile peppers, jalapenos and other southwestern chile.Vegetables andChile plants love the long southwestern sunshine which is ideal for productive and abundant crop.
Rototill the land or at least dig up the soil with a shovel to loosen the dirt/soil.
Clear the spot or location of any large rocks, grass or weeds that may be in the area.
Chose a good vegetable garden fertilizer and apply it over the soil.
Chile peppers and vegetables do NOT like cooler temperatures. Plant them when temperatures are consistently above 50 degrees fahrenheit during the night.
A good fertilizer will have the following nutrients: Nitrogen (N), Phosphorus (P), and Potassium (K) are the three nutrients of concern to most gardeners. Calcium (Ca) and magnesium (Mg) are also needed. A good fertilizer will have a 5-10-5 mixture. Apply about 2 tablespoons per 50 sq ft.
Consider growing vegetables and chile seeds that are suitable for your area. Call your local Nursery for information on what will grow well in your area. Many nurseries have vegetables and chile already planted as seedlings. These type of plants will do better for the novice gardener since they are already set to plant and grow!
Remember its YOUR garden decide if you want vegetables seeds or grown container plants?
Water is essential to your vegetable garden. Use a good Drip System or water by hose on a daily basis especially in the desert southwest. About 1.5" of water per week should do.
Vegetables like low acid PH levels in the soil. You can always amend the soil with nutrients at a later date.
Weeds will suck up all the nutrients from the soil. So remember to pull out all weeds whenever possible.
Do NOT over water or have standing water over a long period of time. Over watering is just as bad as little or no water! Blossom end rot is where the tomatoes will look brown or black usually at the bottom. Click here for Blossom-End Rot Control
Try to buy tomatoes and chile that are resistant to "VFN". What is "VFN"? Following is what this means: V=Verticillium F=Fusarium, and N=nematodes. These are fungii that causes plants to wilt.
The most important part is constant viewing of your plants. If you don't look at them at least daily you are just wasting your time and money.
Paul
Thursday, July 16, 2009
How to care for houseplants
Are you having difficulity growing the following houseplants: Aralia, Hibiscus, Cyclamen, Anthurium, Bromeliad, Croton, Bougainvillea, Orchids, Ficus, Assorted Ferns and many others?
Most houseplants like "indirect" sunlight. Use them in front of a window covered by venitian blinds, or underneath a skylight. Choose plants that like low light such as Pothos, Philodendrons, and Boston ferns. Always purchase healthy vigorous plants from a reputable Nursery. (Avoid Big Store Nurseries)
Be sure to fertilize your houseplants with a good "houseplant" fertilizer. Apply fertilizer every month during spring and summer. Very little fertilizing during the winter months. Do NOT fertilize dormant plants. A good 20-20-20 all purpose plant food will work. We recommend "Peters all purpose plant food".
Call your local nursery for other recommended fertilizers.
Watering depends on the type of houseplant you want, but as a general rule keep the top of container moist. Do NOT over water. Make sure all containers drain well. For Super Blooms try "Green Lights" 12-55-6. Be sure to read instruction carefully.
Check your plants at least once per week, look for pests, insects etc... Brown tip leaves could indicate over watering. Be sure to isolate the plant whenever insects are present. Use a good all purpose insect spray. We recommend "Schultz Expert Gardener Insect Spray". Be sure the product is specifically labeled for both the pest and plant species.
Organic gardening works great
Clean your plants often, remove dead or dying leaves. Dumping of an over infested plant may be the best solution. Mealybugs are a common houseplant problem. These are small white bugs that attach themselves to the leaves.
All houseplants require some natural lighting and sunlight is the best method. Remember most houseplants that bloom require MORE sunlight. Try to use south facing windows for houseplants that produce colorful blooms.
Ferns, Pothos, and Spathiphyllum like low light. Dark corners and bathrooms are an ideal place.
Over watering is just as bad as little or no water! Place your finger in the soil. If it is moist it probably does not need water.
Visit Guzmansgreenhouse.com for more free gardening information.
Most houseplants like "indirect" sunlight. Use them in front of a window covered by venitian blinds, or underneath a skylight. Choose plants that like low light such as Pothos, Philodendrons, and Boston ferns. Always purchase healthy vigorous plants from a reputable Nursery. (Avoid Big Store Nurseries)
Be sure to fertilize your houseplants with a good "houseplant" fertilizer. Apply fertilizer every month during spring and summer. Very little fertilizing during the winter months. Do NOT fertilize dormant plants. A good 20-20-20 all purpose plant food will work. We recommend "Peters all purpose plant food".
Call your local nursery for other recommended fertilizers.
Watering depends on the type of houseplant you want, but as a general rule keep the top of container moist. Do NOT over water. Make sure all containers drain well. For Super Blooms try "Green Lights" 12-55-6. Be sure to read instruction carefully.
Check your plants at least once per week, look for pests, insects etc... Brown tip leaves could indicate over watering. Be sure to isolate the plant whenever insects are present. Use a good all purpose insect spray. We recommend "Schultz Expert Gardener Insect Spray". Be sure the product is specifically labeled for both the pest and plant species.
Organic gardening works great
Clean your plants often, remove dead or dying leaves. Dumping of an over infested plant may be the best solution. Mealybugs are a common houseplant problem. These are small white bugs that attach themselves to the leaves.
All houseplants require some natural lighting and sunlight is the best method. Remember most houseplants that bloom require MORE sunlight. Try to use south facing windows for houseplants that produce colorful blooms.
Ferns, Pothos, and Spathiphyllum like low light. Dark corners and bathrooms are an ideal place.
Over watering is just as bad as little or no water! Place your finger in the soil. If it is moist it probably does not need water.
Visit Guzmansgreenhouse.com for more free gardening information.
Sunday, May 31, 2009
Everything Now 40% off at Guzman's Greenhouse on University
Guzman's Greenhouse in Las Cruces (University location only) 40% off sale on all items in stock.
In mid 2008 the land located at 655 University avenue was sold. Our lease located on the same property will no longer be available. We will have to move our entire stock to the Telshore location located at 540 Telshore.
As most folks know moving from one place to another is a BIG chore. Moving thousands of items to the other store could become a logistical nightmare. However we will do our best to sell as many items before June 25th. This will make us very happy and our customers even more so because of the huge savings on all of our garden products. The less stuff we have to move the better. Our loss is your gain!
After June 25th 2009 we will only have one store located at 540 Telshore Las Cruces, NM. Gary and Lydia Guzman (owners) are currently looking for land on the west side of the city for a future "Color Your World II" garden center.
We will continue to do our best to provide all of our customers with the best garden products and advice at the Telshor location.
If you have any questions or comments please post them on the form below
Paul Guzman
Paul Guzman
Wednesday, May 27, 2009
Where to purchase roses in Las Cruces, NM
Roses in Las Cruces, NM.
Color Your World Nurseries have thousands of roses. Climbing, Shrub, Floribunda's, Hybrids and Tree roses available at the University Location in Las Cruces (655 University Ave. )
Caring for roses is not as hard as some people may believe. Below is what they need. They like lots of water especially when first planted.They need at least 6 hours of sun each day. They like rich lose loamy soil.
Make sure water drains well. Roses should not be left in standing water, even during dormant winter months. Doing so can have adverse problems such as powerdy mildew or other diseases. They can be planted alone or with other companion perennials. Be sure to give then enough room to fill out. Normally around 3-4ft. between plants.
Remember to plant roses where falling snow, ice, or any other debris will not damage plants. The Best time to prune growing roses are from December through early Feburary. Deep watering is better than shallow water. Use a good mulch to retain water. Compost, bark, straw or other similiar materials discourage weeds! Use good composted soil when planting roses. Typically roses should be fertilzed once in early spring, summer and early fall. DO not fertilize during colder climates or during the winter season.
Most of our roses come from Jackson and Perkins and are considered the best wholesale rose nursery in the world. They are in peat pot containers and are watered and fertilized for outstanding bloom color and selection.
If you have questions about our roses or any plants call us today at 575 521 0496. Or contact us at: http://www.guzmansgreenhouse.com/contact.htm
From now until the end of June (2009) our Jackson and Perkins roses will be on sale at 30% off. So come by today for the best selection.
Color Your World Nurseries have thousands of roses. Climbing, Shrub, Floribunda's, Hybrids and Tree roses available at the University Location in Las Cruces (655 University Ave. )
Caring for roses is not as hard as some people may believe. Below is what they need. They like lots of water especially when first planted.They need at least 6 hours of sun each day. They like rich lose loamy soil.
Make sure water drains well. Roses should not be left in standing water, even during dormant winter months. Doing so can have adverse problems such as powerdy mildew or other diseases. They can be planted alone or with other companion perennials. Be sure to give then enough room to fill out. Normally around 3-4ft. between plants.
Remember to plant roses where falling snow, ice, or any other debris will not damage plants. The Best time to prune growing roses are from December through early Feburary. Deep watering is better than shallow water. Use a good mulch to retain water. Compost, bark, straw or other similiar materials discourage weeds! Use good composted soil when planting roses. Typically roses should be fertilzed once in early spring, summer and early fall. DO not fertilize during colder climates or during the winter season.
Most of our roses come from Jackson and Perkins and are considered the best wholesale rose nursery in the world. They are in peat pot containers and are watered and fertilized for outstanding bloom color and selection.
If you have questions about our roses or any plants call us today at 575 521 0496. Or contact us at: http://www.guzmansgreenhouse.com/contact.htm
From now until the end of June (2009) our Jackson and Perkins roses will be on sale at 30% off. So come by today for the best selection.
Thursday, May 21, 2009
Oleanders for the southwest
Oleanders for Southwestern Landscaping.
Oleanders are beautiful Desert Plants. They come in several colors the hardy red is what most people purchase. The species is in the genus Nerium, and is also known as Rosa, Adelfa, Olean, Laurier Rose, and Aiwa. Oleanders will bloom all summer long but mostly during the mid spring season. They do not like climates that are consistenly below 20degress f. during the winter season. They also love hot climates even reflected heat from a wall or cement entrances. Most will grow to about 20ft tall and about 15ft wide. Here is a list of the most common Oleanders.
- Hardy Red Oleander (Red)
- Sister Agnes Oleander (white)
- White Sands Oleander (Shorter Oleander)
- Pink Oleander (Very hardy and grows faster than the other varities)
- Salmon Pink (A lighter pink variety but much more colorful than the pink one)
Their is a dwarf variety that grows to about 4-5ft tall and wide. But will only come in red blooms. Not quite as hardy as the regular red oleander.
There is also the pink and white varities that have the same cold tolerances. These shrubs are very hardy in the southwest and are tolerant of droughts. They can also take lots of water which is ideal for landscape ponding areas.
Remember Oleanders like hot climates and can be grown in colder areas but will require 1-2 years of care before they will thrive.
Color your world Nurseries will usually have this type of plant. Or ask you local Nursery for such "Oleander".
This plant is highly toxic so....keep pets and children from chewing or eating them.
Monday, May 18, 2009
Spruce Tree Information
Spruce trees for the southwest (confier trees).
Alberta Spruce (Picea glauca 'Conica') - Landscape your home with something different. This Evergreen conifer has a symmetrical, pyramidal look to it. It has green to lime green pine needles. Very slow grower. Plant It in partial sun and is an excellent pine for that pine forest garden look. Excellent as a tub plant or miniature Christmas tree. In the Southwest this confier needs shade...underneath a larger shade tree will work great. It looks good in a formal type of garden setting. You can also plant this tree in a container and it requires more care. It will only grow to about 6 feet to 8 feet tall and 4 to 5 feet wide; larger with age. Can be used as an indoor Christmas Tree then planted outside after the Holidays. Cone shaped dwarf conifer trees displaying a dense dark green needles. Remember this tree is NOT drought tolerant.USDA Zones 6-9
The Hoop's blue spruce (Picea pungens 'Hoopsii') - This spruce tree does well in the desert southwest. Most folks in the southwest think it won't grow but with a little more care and water it will do great. This tree is a bright blue and more so with new growth. Pyramidal form that holds stiff horizontal branches with dense silvery-blue mature needles. Full sun. Fast-growing to 30 to 50 feet high, 10 to 20 feet wide. It is not drought tolerant so it does reguire regular watering especially during the hot summer southwestern months for extensive root system growth. Howerver watering can be reduced after establishment usually 2-3 years down the road. Feed with a general purpose fertilizer before new growth begins in spring.USDA Zones 6-9
Colorado Blue Spruce (Picea pungens 'Glauca') - A good spruce tree that will do great in the southwest. This Evergreen conifer and has a symmetrical, pyramidal form. Blue grey pine needles. Moderate grower to 40 to 60 feet high, 10 to 20 feet wide. It can take full sun and is an excellent pine for that forest look. This tree is not drought tolerant so it does reguire regular watering especially during the hot summer southwestern months for extensive root system growth. However watering can be reduced after establishment usually 2-3 years down the road. Feed with a general purpose fertilizer before new growth begins in spring.USDA Zones 6-9
There are other types of evergreen trees that will do well in the desert southwest. The Afgan, Austrain, Japanese and the Pinon tree.
(All photos courtesy of Monrovia Wholesale Nurseries).
Color Your World Nurseries in Las Cruces, NM will usually have these trees and other evergreens in stock. Call us today at (575) 521-0496
Got questions contact us at: http://www.guzmansgreenhouse.com/contact.htm
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