Monday, January 04, 2010
Tuesday, November 24, 2009
How to plant trees and shrubs
These tree planting steps are designed for the lower elevations of the desert southwest. But can be applied to almost any zone area.
1. Water - This is the most important factor. You will need to water all trees and shrubs on a daily basis for at least the first 2-3 weeks after planting them. 3-5 gallons or water per 5 ga. tree. This is very critical during the summer months.
2. To ensure successful planting do NOT fertilize right after planting your tree or shrub. Use a good root stimulator to stimulate root growth. Do not fertilize during the winter months. Use a good all purpose tree or shrub fertilizer right after the last frost ( usually after march in the southwest ) Water about twice per month during December, January and March. Typically you should fertilize once in the spring, summer and fall.
3. Most southwestern soils lack acid, use a good compost with some acidity to help root development during planting. You can purchase a pH (potential of Hydrogen) tester to measure levels of acidity or akaline in your soil.
4. If you are using a drip system be sure that the emitter is directly over the root ball of the tree or plant. A couple of inches off may result in insuffcient water to your plant. Many plants have gone to "plant heaven" because of this one mistake.
5. Fertilize your tree or shrub with a good all purpose fertilizer anything close to a 16-8-8 analysis will work great. Leaves turning yellow are sometimes a lack of iron in the soil. Add a fertilizer with iron, liquid iron or ironite. This should be done only when your plants or trees have leafed out.
6. Remember most trees and shrubs need about 6 monts to about 1 year before they are established. Once established Almost all plants will require less water.
7. Native plants need as much watering as other plants during the first year. Once established they will usually thrive with much less water. Once a month during winter and about 1 per week during the dry hot summer months.
8. Be sure the root ball on all container plants are intact when planting them. Do NOT expose the roots. The plant will go in extreme shock and may die.
9. Remove and clear any and all weeds and rocks that may be in the area. Weeds will suck out water and nutrients from the soil. Large rocks or debris will hinder root development.
10. Continually check and observe your tree, shrub or plant making sure there are no signs of diseases or insect problems. Insects love new leaf growth. Diseases are usually fungal. Signs are usually wilting, slow growth, leaves turning yellow during the summer months. Not sure what the problem might be? Trim off a branch, limb or leaf and bring it in to your local nursery or greenhouse. They usually have the most knowledgable gardening employees around.
There you have it how to plant trees and shrubs. Pretty simple and basic. For more gardening tips visit: Coloryourworldllc.com
1. Water - This is the most important factor. You will need to water all trees and shrubs on a daily basis for at least the first 2-3 weeks after planting them. 3-5 gallons or water per 5 ga. tree. This is very critical during the summer months.
2. To ensure successful planting do NOT fertilize right after planting your tree or shrub. Use a good root stimulator to stimulate root growth. Do not fertilize during the winter months. Use a good all purpose tree or shrub fertilizer right after the last frost ( usually after march in the southwest ) Water about twice per month during December, January and March. Typically you should fertilize once in the spring, summer and fall.
3. Most southwestern soils lack acid, use a good compost with some acidity to help root development during planting. You can purchase a pH (potential of Hydrogen) tester to measure levels of acidity or akaline in your soil.
4. If you are using a drip system be sure that the emitter is directly over the root ball of the tree or plant. A couple of inches off may result in insuffcient water to your plant. Many plants have gone to "plant heaven" because of this one mistake.
5. Fertilize your tree or shrub with a good all purpose fertilizer anything close to a 16-8-8 analysis will work great. Leaves turning yellow are sometimes a lack of iron in the soil. Add a fertilizer with iron, liquid iron or ironite. This should be done only when your plants or trees have leafed out.
6. Remember most trees and shrubs need about 6 monts to about 1 year before they are established. Once established Almost all plants will require less water.
7. Native plants need as much watering as other plants during the first year. Once established they will usually thrive with much less water. Once a month during winter and about 1 per week during the dry hot summer months.
8. Be sure the root ball on all container plants are intact when planting them. Do NOT expose the roots. The plant will go in extreme shock and may die.
9. Remove and clear any and all weeds and rocks that may be in the area. Weeds will suck out water and nutrients from the soil. Large rocks or debris will hinder root development.
10. Continually check and observe your tree, shrub or plant making sure there are no signs of diseases or insect problems. Insects love new leaf growth. Diseases are usually fungal. Signs are usually wilting, slow growth, leaves turning yellow during the summer months. Not sure what the problem might be? Trim off a branch, limb or leaf and bring it in to your local nursery or greenhouse. They usually have the most knowledgable gardening employees around.
There you have it how to plant trees and shrubs. Pretty simple and basic. For more gardening tips visit: Coloryourworldllc.com
Sunday, November 22, 2009
How to grow vegetables
I am often asked which vegetables are the easiest to plant during the spring season. Being from the Southwestern part of the U.S. my first response is…Chili’s or Peppers.
One of the most popular is the Jalapeno. This pepper can grow to about 3" long and about 1.5" wide. They are ready when the dark green flesh starts to turn a reddish color. They are of course highly pungent.
It is really hard to tell which one will be hotter the next one. The jalapeno can be canned, pickeled. The tam Jalapeno is what most wholesalers use for their Salsa's. The Long Green Chili also very popular throughout the southwest.
The Anaheim Chili, is a classic favorite with Unbeatable Mild Heat! 8-inch peppers are well protected by foliage throughout their growth.
The Chili or pepper vegetables are easy to grow, tolerate extreme heat and insects rarely bother them. Buying them full grown at the grocery store can be a bit expensive. They are highly nutritious with lots of vitamin C. They like to be planted in full sun and watering should be done almost daily during the hot summer months. You can purchase chili or pepper seeds at your local nursery store. The cost is around 2-4 bucks per package. Be sure to purchase this years seeds and not last years. Many big box store nurseries will forget to dispose of older seed packages.
Tomatoes are the next easy vegetable plants to grow. The beefsteak, early girl and cherry tomatoes are fast growing and provide lots of vitamin C. Plant them about 3 ft. apart and be sure to use tomato cages to support their weight. Use bird netting to keep birds away during the growing season. There a tons of other varieties that you can use. Make sure you use good composted soil and purchase seeds that are resistant to diseases. Tomato rot and Verticillium Wilt are two of the more common ones. If your tomato plants look bad be sure to contact your county extension agent or you local nursery and ask for a manager. These folks make a living helping out vegetable gardeners.
Carrots are another easy to grow type of vegetable to grow in your garden. Plant them about 6 inches in rows apart and 2 inches apart from each seed. You can harvest carrots throughout the summer and fall months. Carrots do not like colder type weather be sure to plant when you are sure the last frost has passed. They also like good composted soil that drains well.
Here is a list of other vegetable plants that can be easily planted.
These vegetable plants need good composted soil that drains well. Be sure to use a good vegetable fertilizer and fertilize about once per month. A 10-10-10 is a good mixture of Nitrogen, Phosphorus and Potash.
It is best to use organic type fertilizers and insecticides. However organic materials do not always work as well as man made matter. One of the best deterrents to a healthy garden is constant observance and taking early steps to control insect infestation or disease problems.
Paul Guzman - Color Your World Nursery Las Cruces, NM.
More easy to grow vegetables information here.
- Lettuce – Can be grown in cooler fall type weather. The Jericho variety can tolerate poor soil and hot weather.
- Onions – Put seeds about 4-5 inches into the ground. Be sure the last frost has passed.
- Broccoli – Will continue to produce even after the first head has been harvested.
- Cucumbers – Just let them grow on the ground…kind of like pumpkins.
- Basil – Does not like cooler temperatures. Excellent herb plant that grows until the first frost
- Beets – Baby beets are the best to plant. Sow about 1-2 inches apart and then thin out as time goes on.
Paul Guzman - Color Your World Nursery Las Cruces, NM.
More easy to grow vegetables information here.
Saturday, November 14, 2009
Beautiful fall color trees
Fall color is the best time to enjoy the outdoors. Numerous trees, shrubs and plants that make this time of year explode with all types of color. From light gorgeous yellow to bright full red. Here are my recommendations for trees and shrubs that will light your garden landscape.
Chinese Pistache Trees (Scientific Name: Pistacia chinensis)
Loves Full Sun can be planted in USDA Zones: 4-10 This Southwestern tree is a desirable ornamental with attractive, umbrella-like crown. Lustrous green leaves turn a brilliant orange crimson in fall. Very drought tolerant, deciduous and extremely handsome tree. About 30-40 ft. tall and wide. Does well in the desert heat.
Modesto Ash Scientific Name: Fraxinus velutina 'Modesto'
They Love the full southwestern sun. Can be planted in USDA Zone 8 - 9. They can grow up to 40ft tall and 30ft wide. An excellent shade tree and moderate grower. Does very well in the southwest, moderate watering check for parasite growth (Mistletoe) deciduous. All varieties of Ash trees will do well in the southwest. Fall cleanup moderate. Stunning full bright Golden Yellow in the fall.
The Raywood Ash tree Scientific Name: Fraxinus oxycarpa. This is an excellent easy care drought tolerant tree to use for your southwestern landscape or just about any part of the U.S. It grows about 2ft per year but will grow much faster if watered and fertilized more often. The Raywood ash tree turns a fantastic deep red during the fall seasons. It grows to about 50-60ft tall and about 40ft wide.
You can see some photos of these trees at: Greenhouse Trees
Chinese Pistache Trees (Scientific Name: Pistacia chinensis)
Loves Full Sun can be planted in USDA Zones: 4-10 This Southwestern tree is a desirable ornamental with attractive, umbrella-like crown. Lustrous green leaves turn a brilliant orange crimson in fall. Very drought tolerant, deciduous and extremely handsome tree. About 30-40 ft. tall and wide. Does well in the desert heat.
Modesto Ash Scientific Name: Fraxinus velutina 'Modesto'
They Love the full southwestern sun. Can be planted in USDA Zone 8 - 9. They can grow up to 40ft tall and 30ft wide. An excellent shade tree and moderate grower. Does very well in the southwest, moderate watering check for parasite growth (Mistletoe) deciduous. All varieties of Ash trees will do well in the southwest. Fall cleanup moderate. Stunning full bright Golden Yellow in the fall.
The Raywood Ash tree Scientific Name: Fraxinus oxycarpa. This is an excellent easy care drought tolerant tree to use for your southwestern landscape or just about any part of the U.S. It grows about 2ft per year but will grow much faster if watered and fertilized more often. The Raywood ash tree turns a fantastic deep red during the fall seasons. It grows to about 50-60ft tall and about 40ft wide.
You can see some photos of these trees at: Greenhouse Trees
Friday, November 13, 2009
How to make a pond
The placement of any in-ground pond is essential. You will need to consider several factors into deciding where and what you and your family, friends and neighbors are going to actually see when the pond is completed.
You can build your pond, water feature, patio water garden, koi pond or whatever you like to call it, from a variety of materials, including hard plastic liners, rubber liners, rigid plastic or fiberglass liners or even from concrete. This article will tell you how it should be done using the plastic method.
A plastic liner can easily be purchase online or at your local nursery. When purchasing your pond liner, be sure to read the fine print. Basically, flexible liners are either rubber or plastic. Rubber is more expensive but works much better and it does cost more. The thickness should be about 40 milimeters or more and should work well with most average size ponds.
The pool itself should be placed on a low, level area, where it would naturally occur. A small slope is fine especially if you are going to have a waterfall in the garden pond. The water flow needs to look natural and flow down hill. You can leave the ground sloped or even enhance the slope where you intend to put the waterfall while easily leveling the pond area.
It is best to avoid placing the garden pond underneath trees or large shrubs as they will need more frequent cleaning of the pond. Shade will generate more moss, and algae, which means less types of water plants and frequent cleaning. This should not impede your quest for a natural pond. There are many low light water plants that can used. Hiring a pond cleaner is also an option.
Don’t place your garden pond where you will receive runoff containing debris or water from roof tops, street, streams or any water that might be toxic. You will probably want to have plants and fish in the pond which are highly sensitive to foreign chemicals in the water. Even runoff which passes over cement can be effectively toxic. Cement contains lime which raises the pH level. Fish can tolerate a wide range of pH levels, but the constant changes will stress them out and could kill them.
It is important to note what your final view of the pond will look like. A pond visible from a large main window in the home can add considerable enjoyment of your home. If placed in the front entry-way a pond can be quite a view for your visitors.
Imagine coming home everyday and enjoying the koi fish and the soothing sound of water cascading downstream. A waterscape pond feature in your garden will turn your hard day at work into a tranquil environment.
Remember these are pond garden tips and are for those who are looking to do it themselves.
See exceptional ponds at Pond Kits
You can build your pond, water feature, patio water garden, koi pond or whatever you like to call it, from a variety of materials, including hard plastic liners, rubber liners, rigid plastic or fiberglass liners or even from concrete. This article will tell you how it should be done using the plastic method.
A plastic liner can easily be purchase online or at your local nursery. When purchasing your pond liner, be sure to read the fine print. Basically, flexible liners are either rubber or plastic. Rubber is more expensive but works much better and it does cost more. The thickness should be about 40 milimeters or more and should work well with most average size ponds.
The pool itself should be placed on a low, level area, where it would naturally occur. A small slope is fine especially if you are going to have a waterfall in the garden pond. The water flow needs to look natural and flow down hill. You can leave the ground sloped or even enhance the slope where you intend to put the waterfall while easily leveling the pond area.
It is best to avoid placing the garden pond underneath trees or large shrubs as they will need more frequent cleaning of the pond. Shade will generate more moss, and algae, which means less types of water plants and frequent cleaning. This should not impede your quest for a natural pond. There are many low light water plants that can used. Hiring a pond cleaner is also an option.
Don’t place your garden pond where you will receive runoff containing debris or water from roof tops, street, streams or any water that might be toxic. You will probably want to have plants and fish in the pond which are highly sensitive to foreign chemicals in the water. Even runoff which passes over cement can be effectively toxic. Cement contains lime which raises the pH level. Fish can tolerate a wide range of pH levels, but the constant changes will stress them out and could kill them.
It is important to note what your final view of the pond will look like. A pond visible from a large main window in the home can add considerable enjoyment of your home. If placed in the front entry-way a pond can be quite a view for your visitors.
Imagine coming home everyday and enjoying the koi fish and the soothing sound of water cascading downstream. A waterscape pond feature in your garden will turn your hard day at work into a tranquil environment.
Remember these are pond garden tips and are for those who are looking to do it themselves.
See exceptional ponds at Pond Kits
Sunday, October 18, 2009
How to start a garden that gets noticed
If you're thinking about starting a garden, the first thing you need to consider is what type of garden you will have. There are many different choices and often it can be hard to pick just one, but hopefully you can narrow it down. But by narrowing it down, you'll make the gardening experience easier on yourself and the plants.
If all your plants are similar, then it shouldn't be very hard to care for them all. So here are some of the main garden ideas for you to choose from. If you're just looking for something to look nice in your yard, you'll want a flower garden. These are usually filled with perennial flower. Perennial flowers are flowers which stay healthy year-round. They're basically weeds because of their hardiness, only nice looking. Different areas and climates have different flowers which are considered perennials. If you do a quick internet search for your area, you can probably find a list of flowers that will bring your flower garden to life. These usually only require work in the planting stage - after that, the flower take care of themselves. The only downside to this is that you don't have any product to show for it.
Another choice for your garden is to have a vegetable garden. These usually require a little more work and research than a flower garden, but can be much more rewarding. No matter what time of the year it is, you can usually find one vegetable that is still prospering. That way you can have your garden be giving you produce almost every day of the year! When starting a vegetable garden, you should build it with the thought in mind that you will be adding more types of veggies in later. This will help your expandability. Once all your current crops are out of season, you won't be stuck with almost nowhere to put the new crops. A vegetable garden is ideal for someone who wants some produce, but doesn't want to devote every waking hour to perfecting their garden (see below.)
One of the more difficult types of gardens to manage is a fruit garden. It's definitely the most high-maintenance. When growing fruits, many more pests will be attracted due to the sweetness. You not only have to deal with having just the right dirt and fertilizer, you have to deal with choosing a pesticide that won't kill whoever eats the fruits. Your fruit garden will probably not produce year-round. The soil needs to be just right for the plants to grow, and putting in another crop during itsoff-season could be disastrous to its growth process. If you're willing to put lots of work into maintaining a garden, then a fruit garden could be a good choice for you.
So now that I've outlined some of the main garden types that people choose, I hope you can make a good decision. Basically, the garden type comes down to what kind of product you want, and how much work you want to do.
If all your plants are similar, then it shouldn't be very hard to care for them all. So here are some of the main garden ideas for you to choose from. If you're just looking for something to look nice in your yard, you'll want a flower garden. These are usually filled with perennial flower. Perennial flowers are flowers which stay healthy year-round. They're basically weeds because of their hardiness, only nice looking. Different areas and climates have different flowers which are considered perennials. If you do a quick internet search for your area, you can probably find a list of flowers that will bring your flower garden to life. These usually only require work in the planting stage - after that, the flower take care of themselves. The only downside to this is that you don't have any product to show for it.
Another choice for your garden is to have a vegetable garden. These usually require a little more work and research than a flower garden, but can be much more rewarding. No matter what time of the year it is, you can usually find one vegetable that is still prospering. That way you can have your garden be giving you produce almost every day of the year! When starting a vegetable garden, you should build it with the thought in mind that you will be adding more types of veggies in later. This will help your expandability. Once all your current crops are out of season, you won't be stuck with almost nowhere to put the new crops. A vegetable garden is ideal for someone who wants some produce, but doesn't want to devote every waking hour to perfecting their garden (see below.)
One of the more difficult types of gardens to manage is a fruit garden. It's definitely the most high-maintenance. When growing fruits, many more pests will be attracted due to the sweetness. You not only have to deal with having just the right dirt and fertilizer, you have to deal with choosing a pesticide that won't kill whoever eats the fruits. Your fruit garden will probably not produce year-round. The soil needs to be just right for the plants to grow, and putting in another crop during itsoff-season could be disastrous to its growth process. If you're willing to put lots of work into maintaining a garden, then a fruit garden could be a good choice for you.
So now that I've outlined some of the main garden types that people choose, I hope you can make a good decision. Basically, the garden type comes down to what kind of product you want, and how much work you want to do.
Friday, October 09, 2009
What type of colorful plants to use for winter
Colorful Winter Plants
Camellias do well in a winter garden. For some reason many folks in the southwest have forgotten about these plants very colorful winter plants. These amazing plants produce masses of pink, white and red blossoms over a long season in winter and throughout early spring.
Hellebores
Another winter plant for the garden is the hellebore. It is also called the winter rose. The foliage can withstand cold temperatures even snow. The most common are tthe Helleborus x hybridus (or H. orientalis). They come in greenish to pure white, spotted pinks to deep maroon and almost black. Attractive forms are sought and many, often expensive, named varieties can be found. They come back up in seed form in early spring.
Pansies are another wonderul colorful cold hardy plant. They come in numerous colors and sizes. The nice thing about pansies are the numerous variety of colors. They are available in almost all home garden nurseries. They come in white, yellow, purple and blue are old fashioned favorites. The hybrids have made the color array much larger. Ask for them at your local friendly Nursery.
Other cold hardy plants are stock, viola's and snapdragons they are not quite as cold hardy as pansies but they can take temperatures down to about 34 degress farenheight.
If you are in the Las Cruces Southwest area be sure to visit Color Your World Nurseries located at 540 N. Telshore or call us at 575 521 0496.
Thanks from Paul and Gary Guzman
Guzman's Garden Center
Camellias do well in a winter garden. For some reason many folks in the southwest have forgotten about these plants very colorful winter plants. These amazing plants produce masses of pink, white and red blossoms over a long season in winter and throughout early spring.
Hellebores
Another winter plant for the garden is the hellebore. It is also called the winter rose. The foliage can withstand cold temperatures even snow. The most common are tthe Helleborus x hybridus (or H. orientalis). They come in greenish to pure white, spotted pinks to deep maroon and almost black. Attractive forms are sought and many, often expensive, named varieties can be found. They come back up in seed form in early spring.
Pansies are another wonderul colorful cold hardy plant. They come in numerous colors and sizes. The nice thing about pansies are the numerous variety of colors. They are available in almost all home garden nurseries. They come in white, yellow, purple and blue are old fashioned favorites. The hybrids have made the color array much larger. Ask for them at your local friendly Nursery.
Other cold hardy plants are stock, viola's and snapdragons they are not quite as cold hardy as pansies but they can take temperatures down to about 34 degress farenheight.
If you are in the Las Cruces Southwest area be sure to visit Color Your World Nurseries located at 540 N. Telshore or call us at 575 521 0496.
Thanks from Paul and Gary Guzman
Guzman's Garden Center
Thursday, September 17, 2009
Easy Care Houseplant Tips
Houseplant problems and how to correct them.
Tips of leaves turning brown at the tip.
Humidity is probably too low
Maybe over fertilizering can cause leaf burn.
You might have too much excess salt in soil.
Too Much Fluoride in your water.
Leaves Turning Yellow.
You need more nitrogen (fertlizer) in your soil.
You might be overwatering.
You could have hot or cold draft.
The lower leaves will naturally turn yellow then fall off. This is the natural aging process.
Leaves fall off from the plant
You need to add some humidity into the air.
You could be overwatering or underwatering...symptoms are very similiar.
Plants need time to adjust to new environment.
The foliage on new plant stay small
Too low or high light can cause leaves to remain small.
You might need to fertilize your plant use a houseplant fertilizer.
Growth of plants seems long and leggy.
You may be overfertilizing
Place the plant where it get more light.
Plant does not seem to grow.
Possibly temperature is too cool. Put in a warmer place.
Place plant where it gets more light.
The Flower Buds always fall off
There could be a draft in the room cold or hot.
Up the humidity.
Potting soil needs more water. Do NOT let it go dry.
Do NOT move the plant around keep it in one area.
You may need more phosphorus in your soil.
Most houseplants will need water at least once per day, especially during the hot summer months. Deep watering 4-5 times per week is better than light watering once per day. You can cut back on watering during the winter months and little to no fertilizing during the cold weather months.
Tips of leaves turning brown at the tip.
Humidity is probably too low
Maybe over fertilizering can cause leaf burn.
You might have too much excess salt in soil.
Too Much Fluoride in your water.
Leaves Turning Yellow.
You need more nitrogen (fertlizer) in your soil.
You might be overwatering.
You could have hot or cold draft.
The lower leaves will naturally turn yellow then fall off. This is the natural aging process.
Leaves fall off from the plant
You need to add some humidity into the air.
You could be overwatering or underwatering...symptoms are very similiar.
Plants need time to adjust to new environment.
The foliage on new plant stay small
Too low or high light can cause leaves to remain small.
You might need to fertilize your plant use a houseplant fertilizer.
Growth of plants seems long and leggy.
You may be overfertilizing
Place the plant where it get more light.
Plant does not seem to grow.
Possibly temperature is too cool. Put in a warmer place.
Place plant where it gets more light.
The Flower Buds always fall off
There could be a draft in the room cold or hot.
Up the humidity.
Potting soil needs more water. Do NOT let it go dry.
Do NOT move the plant around keep it in one area.
You may need more phosphorus in your soil.
Most houseplants will need water at least once per day, especially during the hot summer months. Deep watering 4-5 times per week is better than light watering once per day. You can cut back on watering during the winter months and little to no fertilizing during the cold weather months.
Wednesday, September 09, 2009
Fall Fruit Tree Care and Pruning
Easy Fruit Tree care and Pruning Tips
Here are a number of things you should do to your fruit trees before winter to ensure the best possible production next season.
Fruit trees need so many chilling hours in order to produce fruit. Call and ask your friendly nursery what kind of fruit trees do well in your area. Also call you local extension agency for the number of chilling hours in your area.
Fig trees are productive with or without heavy pruning. Pruning fruit trees brings fear and concern to southwestern gardeners. Pruning and training your fruit trees are important to creating an arrangement that will yield the maximum crop of fruit.
Pruning tools can be disinfected with a 10% solution of bleach before and after use to prevent diseases from spreading with the cuts that you make. Pruning in the late summer or fall may encourage the tree to continue growing. The pruning of the tree in early years is called tree training as you have to prune the tree so it is a triangle shape with a point at the top. This means that no part of the tree is blocking another part from the sun.
Also there may be variations in the best pruning methods depending on where you live. Start your pruning by removing any dead, damaged or diseased branches. Fruit trees need regular pruning and insect treatments to keep them healthy and by proper pruning and care will encourage optimal growth and most importantly a good healthy large harvest during the fall season.
Always remove any diseased or damaged branches, any crossing branches, any narrow angling branches, and one of the branches in a fork. If you want healthy fruit crops, spray your trees with Neem Oil to control pests and diseases. This should be done in early spring to prevent a large infestation of insects. You can also use a systemic insecticide to get rid of fruit tree insects. However be sure to read the label for the proper time to apply this insecticide.
Here are a number of things you should do to your fruit trees before winter to ensure the best possible production next season.
Fruit trees need so many chilling hours in order to produce fruit. Call and ask your friendly nursery what kind of fruit trees do well in your area. Also call you local extension agency for the number of chilling hours in your area.
Fig trees are productive with or without heavy pruning. Pruning fruit trees brings fear and concern to southwestern gardeners. Pruning and training your fruit trees are important to creating an arrangement that will yield the maximum crop of fruit.
Pruning tools can be disinfected with a 10% solution of bleach before and after use to prevent diseases from spreading with the cuts that you make. Pruning in the late summer or fall may encourage the tree to continue growing. The pruning of the tree in early years is called tree training as you have to prune the tree so it is a triangle shape with a point at the top. This means that no part of the tree is blocking another part from the sun.
Also there may be variations in the best pruning methods depending on where you live. Start your pruning by removing any dead, damaged or diseased branches. Fruit trees need regular pruning and insect treatments to keep them healthy and by proper pruning and care will encourage optimal growth and most importantly a good healthy large harvest during the fall season.
Always remove any diseased or damaged branches, any crossing branches, any narrow angling branches, and one of the branches in a fork. If you want healthy fruit crops, spray your trees with Neem Oil to control pests and diseases. This should be done in early spring to prevent a large infestation of insects. You can also use a systemic insecticide to get rid of fruit tree insects. However be sure to read the label for the proper time to apply this insecticide.
Monday, August 31, 2009
Outdoor furniture in Las Cruces
Outdoor decor in Southwestern New Mexico.
Have you ever bought outdoor furniture at you local big mart stores? The following year it looks old or worse it breaks apart. The southwestern New Mexico heat will deteriorate this cheap outdoor furniture quickly. How do I know...I bought some myself and you and I know it never lasts.
There is a new type of outdoor decor that can last almost indefinitely and it comes from Hanamint.com. Their stuff looks so good you might be tempted to used it for indoor furniture. This fine outdoor furniture has a 10 year warranty. Hanamint warrants the powder coat finish for three (3) years from date of purchase, including peeling or blistering. (1) year for wood, cushions, sling fabrics and umbrella frames. This limited warranty applies to residential use only.
Hanamint makes it easy to enhance the beauty of the outdoor room with its innovative and classic designs. With over 10 years in the outdoor market, Hanamint provides high-quality products with outstanding workmanship, supported with the highest standards in customer service, business integrity and strategic partnerships.
You can see some of this furniture at Color Your World Nurseries in Las Cruces, NM. Ask to see the Hanamint Outdoor Decor Catalog. Or check out some the products right here on our webpage - outdoor furniture.
Sunday, August 30, 2009
New Mexico Gardening Tips
Gardening in New Mexico particularly the lower elevations of the Southwest poses special problems. The soil is sandy and dry and rain water is in short supply. However there are some things you can do to increase fruit, flowers and greenery if you come from this part of the country.
- Water - You should increase watering times on your garden and lawn. Especially during the hot summer months. Non native plants and trees are especially vulnerable to heat scorch and stress. Use a good drip system to water your trees and shrubs. Make certain the drip emitters are directly over the root ball of all plants. Set your water timer to about every other day about 20 minutes each time. Newly planted shrubs and trees need water twice per day for about the first month.
- Fertilize more often. Trees and shrubs require more nitrogen and potash. Flowering plants need more phosphorus. Fertilizers with these nutrients should be purchased at a local greenhouse or nursery. Be sure to follow directions accordingly.
- Use good rich composted material when planting. Compost should be back-filled into the hole along with current soil. About a 50/50 percent ratio.
- Use a good mulch on top of soil to help keep moisture in and weeds out. Eucalyptus and Cedar mulch work well. These type of mulches also help build a barrier to keep insects out.
- You should also increase watering times for your lawn (be sure to follow city restrictions). A healthy well kept lawn will keep away weeds and diseases. Watering should be done in the early morning hours. Do NOT water during night time as this may induce fungus problems.
- Fruit and Pecan trees need a fertilize with zinc. Be sure to purchase a fertilizer with at least a 5% of this essential tree nutrient.
- Inspect your plants regularly don't just plant and forget. Go out and enjoy the day...check each tree, plants, shrub flowers for insects or diseases. Early detection of any problems can reduce the chances of your plants dying or looking bad.
For more southwestern gardening tips visit guzmansgreenhouse.com
Paul Guzman
Las Cruces Water Fountains

Water Fountains are very popular items in the Southwest. The cool relaxing atmosphere it creates during the hot summer months is ideal for Southwestern outdoor decor. Almost all water fountains now come with pumps that will re-circulate water from the bottom bowl upwards towards the top and back down via non viewable hoses.
Most of our Fountains come from Henri Studios. Henri Studio is the world leader in original handcrafted cast stone products. Their unique Fountains, Statuary and Outdoor furnishings are one of a kind in design – form and function. Visit their website for more information:
Maintenance on these fountains is low and cleaning should be done at the end of the fall season. You do have to empty all water before freezing temperatures arrive. More information about water fountain care can be found here: Waterfountaincare.
At Color Your World Nursery in Las Cruces we have lots of water fountains they are 30% off and on sale until mid September 2009. We also have a large catalog with hundreds of other fountains that you can choose from. You can give us a call at 575 521-0496 and ask for water fountain information. We also offer setup and delivery options. We will be glad to help.
Paul Guzman
Sunday, August 23, 2009
Time to harvest vegetables
When is it time to harvest vegetables?
It is important to note that vegetables will not grow as big, and tall as the supermarket kind. Commercial vegetables growers use insecticides, pesticides, and fertilizers that are much stronger than what the local nurseries have. This is one reason why "organic gardening" has grown in popularity in recent years. Read this article about organic gardening.
Below are some common vegetables and tips on when and how they should be harvested.
Asparagus - The Asparagus spears should be about 8 inches tall and about as thick as your small finger. Snap them off at the dirt or ground level and new spears will continue to grow. Stop harvesting about 4-6 weeks after the initial harvest, to allow the plants to produce foliage and food for themselves.
Snap Beans - Be sure to pick before the you can see the seeds bulging. They should snap easily into two separate beans. Check your crop daily sometimes they will mature in one afternoon.
Beets - They are ready any time after you see the beets shoulders sticking out at the soil line. Beets can be harvested when they are small, medium or large. It is up to you.
Broccoli - You can actually eat the unopened flower buds of broccoli, so check frequently, especially as the weather warms up, to ensure you don’t let the flower heads bloom. Harvest when the buds are about the size of a pea.
Brussel Sprouts - They should be at least 1 inch. in diameter before harvesting. Harvest by twisting off or cutting the sprout from the stem. These vegetables mature from the bottom up.
Cabbage - The head of the Cabbage should be almost hard before harvesting . Make sure to harvest when they are ready otherwise they will continue to split.
Carrots - My Favorite. The tops of the carrot will show at the dirt or soil line and you can judge when the diameter looks right for your variety. If the diameter looks good, chances are the length is fine too. But you will need to pull one out to be sure. Carrots can be left in the ground once mature. A light frost can add to the flavor of the crop.
Cauliflower - Remember do not expect your Cauliflower to be as big as the supermarket. Harvest when the head looks full and while the curds of the head are still smooth.
Chile's - Lots of varieties. Habaneros should be firm and about 2-4 inches long. Long green Chile should also be firm and sunken in. They are about 4-6 inches long. Over ripen long green Chile will turn red. This is OK since you can now make red Chile sauce. More chile information right here: Chile Tips
Corn - The silks have to form first usually about 3-4 weeks or so. They will turn dry and brown. The kernels should display a white milky substance when pricked.
Cucumber - You should check them every day. Harvest them when they are young . Timing and length will vary with variety. The should be firm and smooth to the touch. Over ripen cucumbers will taste bitter this can happen before they start to turn yellow.
Eggplant - Should be firm and rigid to the touch . You should always cut them off don't pull out.
Garlic - They are ready to be harvested when they turn brown. Be sure to clean off completely and allow them to dry before storing.
Kale - Kale can actually be harvested throughout the season, but they should be green and rigid to the touch. Kale will taste much better during the cool season. Kale is also a great ornamental plant. Great blue green color finishing its cycle in late winter. Usually February in the Southwest.
Leeks - When Leeks reach about 1 inch. in diameter you know it's time to harvest.
Lettuce - Should be harvested once the head feels full and firm with a gentle squeeze. Hot weather will cause it to bolt or go to seed rather than filling out.
It is important to note that vegetables will not grow as big, and tall as the supermarket kind. Commercial vegetables growers use insecticides, pesticides, and fertilizers that are much stronger than what the local nurseries have. This is one reason why "organic gardening" has grown in popularity in recent years. Read this article about organic gardening.
Below are some common vegetables and tips on when and how they should be harvested.
Asparagus - The Asparagus spears should be about 8 inches tall and about as thick as your small finger. Snap them off at the dirt or ground level and new spears will continue to grow. Stop harvesting about 4-6 weeks after the initial harvest, to allow the plants to produce foliage and food for themselves.
Snap Beans - Be sure to pick before the you can see the seeds bulging. They should snap easily into two separate beans. Check your crop daily sometimes they will mature in one afternoon.
Beets - They are ready any time after you see the beets shoulders sticking out at the soil line. Beets can be harvested when they are small, medium or large. It is up to you.
Broccoli - You can actually eat the unopened flower buds of broccoli, so check frequently, especially as the weather warms up, to ensure you don’t let the flower heads bloom. Harvest when the buds are about the size of a pea.
Brussel Sprouts - They should be at least 1 inch. in diameter before harvesting. Harvest by twisting off or cutting the sprout from the stem. These vegetables mature from the bottom up.
Cabbage - The head of the Cabbage should be almost hard before harvesting . Make sure to harvest when they are ready otherwise they will continue to split.
Carrots - My Favorite. The tops of the carrot will show at the dirt or soil line and you can judge when the diameter looks right for your variety. If the diameter looks good, chances are the length is fine too. But you will need to pull one out to be sure. Carrots can be left in the ground once mature. A light frost can add to the flavor of the crop.
Cauliflower - Remember do not expect your Cauliflower to be as big as the supermarket. Harvest when the head looks full and while the curds of the head are still smooth.
Chile's - Lots of varieties. Habaneros should be firm and about 2-4 inches long. Long green Chile should also be firm and sunken in. They are about 4-6 inches long. Over ripen long green Chile will turn red. This is OK since you can now make red Chile sauce. More chile information right here: Chile Tips
Corn - The silks have to form first usually about 3-4 weeks or so. They will turn dry and brown. The kernels should display a white milky substance when pricked.
Cucumber - You should check them every day. Harvest them when they are young . Timing and length will vary with variety. The should be firm and smooth to the touch. Over ripen cucumbers will taste bitter this can happen before they start to turn yellow.
Eggplant - Should be firm and rigid to the touch . You should always cut them off don't pull out.
Garlic - They are ready to be harvested when they turn brown. Be sure to clean off completely and allow them to dry before storing.
Kale - Kale can actually be harvested throughout the season, but they should be green and rigid to the touch. Kale will taste much better during the cool season. Kale is also a great ornamental plant. Great blue green color finishing its cycle in late winter. Usually February in the Southwest.
Leeks - When Leeks reach about 1 inch. in diameter you know it's time to harvest.
Lettuce - Should be harvested once the head feels full and firm with a gentle squeeze. Hot weather will cause it to bolt or go to seed rather than filling out.
The adjustable garden seat swivels 360 degrees. Pneumatic tires roll smoothly on grass, cement or landscaping rock. Steering handle guides cart around corners and eliminates the need to get up. Get yours today at:
Sunday, August 02, 2009
Lawn care for the Southwest
How to have a picture perfect lawn in the Southwest
Lawns in the Southwest require some special requirements than other parts of the U.S.
For one thing we get very little rain. Some parts of the desert southwest get only 2 maybe 3 inches per year. Wow... that is a staggering stat considering Seattle Washingtion gets on the average about 36.2 inches per year.
So what can the average Joe living in the lower elevations of the desert do to keep his lawn looking good.
Choose drought tolerant grasses. Bermuda varities will work great. Princess77 is a great water saver and looks good throughout the hot summer months. Buffalo grass is another tuff low water grass. St. Augustine and Zoysiagrass or others that will work well. Ask for them at your local nursery.
Water...the more the better especially during drought seasons. Of course follow city and local water restrictions.
Water during the early morning hours. Set your drip system to 7:00 am and water about 20 minutes every other day if restrictions allow it. Avoid watering during night time it could result in fungus problems.
Fertilize often. Use a good 16-8-8 analysis. The better maintained your lawn the less likely weeds and fungus problems will arise. Thatch and aerate during early spring or late winter.
Spotty brown spots could indicate grubs or fungus. A hazy bluish color is a sign of not enough water.
Lawns in the Southwest require some special requirements than other parts of the U.S.
For one thing we get very little rain. Some parts of the desert southwest get only 2 maybe 3 inches per year. Wow... that is a staggering stat considering Seattle Washingtion gets on the average about 36.2 inches per year.
So what can the average Joe living in the lower elevations of the desert do to keep his lawn looking good.
Choose drought tolerant grasses. Bermuda varities will work great. Princess77 is a great water saver and looks good throughout the hot summer months. Buffalo grass is another tuff low water grass. St. Augustine and Zoysiagrass or others that will work well. Ask for them at your local nursery.
Water...the more the better especially during drought seasons. Of course follow city and local water restrictions.
Water during the early morning hours. Set your drip system to 7:00 am and water about 20 minutes every other day if restrictions allow it. Avoid watering during night time it could result in fungus problems.
Fertilize often. Use a good 16-8-8 analysis. The better maintained your lawn the less likely weeds and fungus problems will arise. Thatch and aerate during early spring or late winter.
Spotty brown spots could indicate grubs or fungus. A hazy bluish color is a sign of not enough water.
Friday, July 31, 2009
Annuals or Perennials Explained
What type of plants or flowers do you have. Depending on what part of the country you live in some perennials are annuals and vice versa.
I'll explain the difference between Annuals and Perennials below.
Annuals means usually only one growing season, completing its life cycle in one growing season. They could be seeds, flowering, or fruiting plants during that period. Most vegetables, are considered annuals. Wild flowers and weeds can also be annuals. The duration of a cycle is varied, it may be a few weeks to several months, depending on the species. Annual flowers and plants are used for that showy one time use in landscaping. They will have to be replaced the following season or cycle season.
Biennials these plants complete their life cycle in two growing seasons. The first season it produces only the basal leaves, grows its stem, produces flowers and fruits, then dies in the second season. The plant usually requires some special environmental condition or treatment such as exposure to a cold temperature to be induced to reproductive phase. Although annuals and biennials rarely become woody in regions where seasons rarely change, these plants may sometimes produce secondary growth in their stems and roots.
Perennials they are herbaceous plants that grow year round and through the adverse weather conditions. They will live through the summer, fall and winter seasons. They will also flower and fruit a variable number of years of vegetative growth past their second year. Many perennials survive the harsh cold season as dormant underground roots, rhizomes, bulbs, and tubers. Examples are ornamental trees, all varieties of bermuda grass, numerous landscaping shrubs, daylilies, and some bulbs.
Herbaceous Perennials are those with bascially, succulent stems. In climates that rarely change the tops die after a season of vegetative growth, sometimes dying down
In tropical or subtropical climates the tops of herbaceous perennials may die down, due to natural causes leading to a period of rest following flowering and seeding, or they may remain alive for long periods. Many bulb plants are considered herbaceous perennials.
Woody Perennials these are plants that become woody and soft. They are usually vines, groundcovers and some species of Roses. Some plants, however, growing as woody perennials in their growing habitat, take on the characteristics of herbaceous perennials when grown where their tops freeze to the ground in the winter but where the temperature is not enough to destroy their roots.
House plants these plants are adapted for indoor use. They are grown in containers, usually slow growing, and may be flowering or foliage plants. Here is a small list: Sansevieria, Rubber plants , Philodendrons, Aloe Vera plant, Pothos, and many more. You can make many annuals perennials by adapting them for indoor use. Example of houseplants here: Houseplants
Bedding plants are considered annuals they are used for planting outdoors in flower beds. They are either seedlings or started from seeds. They can be transplanted later in the growing season. Here are some good bedding plant examples: Chili, Petunia, Zinnias, Pansy, and Marigolds. Sometimes Geraniums will get through the winter season in the southwest.
More bedding plants here: Bedding Plants
Thanks from Paul Guzman
I'll explain the difference between Annuals and Perennials below.
Annuals means usually only one growing season, completing its life cycle in one growing season. They could be seeds, flowering, or fruiting plants during that period. Most vegetables, are considered annuals. Wild flowers and weeds can also be annuals. The duration of a cycle is varied, it may be a few weeks to several months, depending on the species. Annual flowers and plants are used for that showy one time use in landscaping. They will have to be replaced the following season or cycle season.
Biennials these plants complete their life cycle in two growing seasons. The first season it produces only the basal leaves, grows its stem, produces flowers and fruits, then dies in the second season. The plant usually requires some special environmental condition or treatment such as exposure to a cold temperature to be induced to reproductive phase. Although annuals and biennials rarely become woody in regions where seasons rarely change, these plants may sometimes produce secondary growth in their stems and roots.
Perennials they are herbaceous plants that grow year round and through the adverse weather conditions. They will live through the summer, fall and winter seasons. They will also flower and fruit a variable number of years of vegetative growth past their second year. Many perennials survive the harsh cold season as dormant underground roots, rhizomes, bulbs, and tubers. Examples are ornamental trees, all varieties of bermuda grass, numerous landscaping shrubs, daylilies, and some bulbs.
Herbaceous Perennials are those with bascially, succulent stems. In climates that rarely change the tops die after a season of vegetative growth, sometimes dying down
In tropical or subtropical climates the tops of herbaceous perennials may die down, due to natural causes leading to a period of rest following flowering and seeding, or they may remain alive for long periods. Many bulb plants are considered herbaceous perennials.
Woody Perennials these are plants that become woody and soft. They are usually vines, groundcovers and some species of Roses. Some plants, however, growing as woody perennials in their growing habitat, take on the characteristics of herbaceous perennials when grown where their tops freeze to the ground in the winter but where the temperature is not enough to destroy their roots.
House plants these plants are adapted for indoor use. They are grown in containers, usually slow growing, and may be flowering or foliage plants. Here is a small list: Sansevieria, Rubber plants , Philodendrons, Aloe Vera plant, Pothos, and many more. You can make many annuals perennials by adapting them for indoor use. Example of houseplants here: Houseplants
Bedding plants are considered annuals they are used for planting outdoors in flower beds. They are either seedlings or started from seeds. They can be transplanted later in the growing season. Here are some good bedding plant examples: Chili, Petunia, Zinnias, Pansy, and Marigolds. Sometimes Geraniums will get through the winter season in the southwest.
More bedding plants here: Bedding Plants
Thanks from Paul Guzman
Monday, July 27, 2009
How to make your flowers bloom

Make your flowers bloom more often
What is it that makes flowers bloom? It really is simple. You need more phosphorus in your soil. So what is phosphorus? It is a natural occuring element or an inorganic phosphate. I could get into the whole scientific meaning but for our purpose this is what we really need to know. It make your plants, flowers, trees, and shrubs bloom. Without this element our world we be....well colorless.
Most fertilizers contain this element and is the middle number or symbol that describes the product. It is sometimes referred by the letter or symbol "P".
If your flowering plants are not flowering you are missing this natural occuring nurtient in your soil. Over time heavy watering or rain fall will depelete the natural occuring nurtients in the soil. This is why we need to fertilize our plants and trees.
Want to get more blooms more often? Purchase a fertilizer with a high content of phosphorus. Remember it is the middle number on most fertilizer products. And always read the instructions on the correct mixture and application of all fertilizer products. Too much and you could burn the root system. Too little and you will not get the results you are looking for.
Here are two products that I use. GreenLights Super bloom and Carl Pool's Br-61 works wonders. Ask for them at your local Greenhouse or Nursery.
Sunday, July 26, 2009
When should I fertilize my lawn
How often should I fertlize my lawn?
This is a question I get all the time at Color Your World Greenhouse. Here is my standard answer. Typically you should fertilize once when grass starts to turn green, again in early summer and once more in early fall. You are bascially wasting your money fertilizing warm seasonal grasses during winter. If you have evergreen lawns such as fescue or Kentucky blue grass you should apply a winterizer during the winter season.
If you want your lawn to look exceptionally good try to fertilizing once per month when your grass start to turn green.
The winterizer is NOT a fertilizer but more of a root stimulator to help lawn roots become much hardier.
Always apply the recommended mixture of fertilizer that your product recommends. A good mixture of 16-8-8 will work very well.
For more information about making your own look good all year long visit the follow website.
http://www.guzmansgreenhouse.com/lawn-care.htm
Thanks from Paul Guzman
This is a question I get all the time at Color Your World Greenhouse. Here is my standard answer. Typically you should fertilize once when grass starts to turn green, again in early summer and once more in early fall. You are bascially wasting your money fertilizing warm seasonal grasses during winter. If you have evergreen lawns such as fescue or Kentucky blue grass you should apply a winterizer during the winter season.
If you want your lawn to look exceptionally good try to fertilizing once per month when your grass start to turn green.
The winterizer is NOT a fertilizer but more of a root stimulator to help lawn roots become much hardier.
Always apply the recommended mixture of fertilizer that your product recommends. A good mixture of 16-8-8 will work very well.
For more information about making your own look good all year long visit the follow website.
http://www.guzmansgreenhouse.com/lawn-care.htm
Thanks from Paul Guzman
Thursday, July 23, 2009
The Dog Days of Summer are Upon Us.
Wether you live in Las Cruces, NM or anywhere in the Continental United States.
Here are a few tips to keep your garden and a few specific problems from getting away from you during the month of August gardening. Your lawn, again usually three things or any combination of them may be the culprit(s) for making your lawn or patches of your lawn turn brown.
Check water first. It may be that your sprinkler is just not applying enough water to certain areas of your lawn. Remember if you can see your footprints in the lawn after you walk on it then it is time to get water on it asap. If the patchy brown areas of your lawn feel slightly "warmer" than the green areas of your lawn it usually means that particular area is not receiving enough moisture. It is best to core holes in this area, which will help deliver water right to the roots. The second item you may want to check will be for grubs.
There will be no mistaking these creatures. They are usually about the size of your thumb, creamy white with a brown head. They will feed on the grass roots to store up for winter and "hibernate" and emerge next year as adults.
These adults are the May and June beetles your see flying around at dusk in early summer. There are granular and liquid insecticides as well a natural beneficial nematodes to help control these critters.
The third item to check for will be a fungus. If you look closely at the blades of grass that are just around the edge of a dry patch you may notice lines or markings on each individual blade(s) of grass. If you have already checked for water or grubworms and are sure these two are not the problems this could be whats making your lawn turn brown.
There are also granualar and liquid fungicides available to help with this situation.
If you have any flowering trees or shrubs such as roses, crape myrtle, vitex, bird of paradise, oleander, among others it is very important to remove the "spent blossoms" as they appear. This action will help keep your flowering plants blooming up until frost. If this is not done the plants will spend a lot of energy into forming seeds at the expense of new blossoms.
Remember this usuallly works on just about any flowering plant. If your plants are looking a little pale in color you may want to incorporate some iron into your soil. Plants and lawns can lose some of their deep green color this time of year due to so much watering.
The soil may get leached out of it's nutrients by August so it is important to replace these minerals with chelated iron or Ironite. This not only puts a deep green back into the foliage but also makes flowers more vibrant.
If it has been more thant 5 to 6 weeks since you last fertilized your lawn then it is time. For this area a 16-8-8 fertilizer with iron, sulphur and zinc is recommended. This may be used on a fescue, rye or bermuda lawn, as well as trees and shrubs.
If you have any questions concerning "August Garden Tips" please email us at: us@guzmansgreenhouse.com
Here are a few tips to keep your garden and a few specific problems from getting away from you during the month of August gardening. Your lawn, again usually three things or any combination of them may be the culprit(s) for making your lawn or patches of your lawn turn brown.
Check water first. It may be that your sprinkler is just not applying enough water to certain areas of your lawn. Remember if you can see your footprints in the lawn after you walk on it then it is time to get water on it asap. If the patchy brown areas of your lawn feel slightly "warmer" than the green areas of your lawn it usually means that particular area is not receiving enough moisture. It is best to core holes in this area, which will help deliver water right to the roots. The second item you may want to check will be for grubs.
There will be no mistaking these creatures. They are usually about the size of your thumb, creamy white with a brown head. They will feed on the grass roots to store up for winter and "hibernate" and emerge next year as adults.
These adults are the May and June beetles your see flying around at dusk in early summer. There are granular and liquid insecticides as well a natural beneficial nematodes to help control these critters.
The third item to check for will be a fungus. If you look closely at the blades of grass that are just around the edge of a dry patch you may notice lines or markings on each individual blade(s) of grass. If you have already checked for water or grubworms and are sure these two are not the problems this could be whats making your lawn turn brown.
There are also granualar and liquid fungicides available to help with this situation.
If you have any flowering trees or shrubs such as roses, crape myrtle, vitex, bird of paradise, oleander, among others it is very important to remove the "spent blossoms" as they appear. This action will help keep your flowering plants blooming up until frost. If this is not done the plants will spend a lot of energy into forming seeds at the expense of new blossoms.
Remember this usually works on just about any flowering plant. If your plants are looking a little pale in color you may want to incorporate some iron into your soil. Plants and lawns can lose some of their deep green color this time of year due to so much watering.
The soil may get leached out of it's nutrients by August so it is important to replace these minerals with chelated iron or Ironite. This not only puts a deep green back into the foliage but also makes flowers more vibrant.
If it has been more than 5 to 6 weeks since you last fertilized your lawn then it is time. For this area a 16-8-8 fertilizer with iron, sulphur and zinc is recommended. This may be used on a fescue, rye or bermuda lawn, as well as trees and shrubs.
This article "Dog Days of Summer" is free to use as long as the following is attached: - Authors Gary and Paul Guzman Website: http://www.guzmansgreenhouse.com
Wether you live in Las Cruces, NM or anywhere in the Continental United States.
Here are a few tips to keep your garden and a few specific problems from getting away from you during the month of August gardening. Your lawn, again usually three things or any combination of them may be the culprit(s) for making your lawn or patches of your lawn turn brown.
Check water first. It may be that your sprinkler is just not applying enough water to certain areas of your lawn. Remember if you can see your footprints in the lawn after you walk on it then it is time to get water on it asap. If the patchy brown areas of your lawn feel slightly "warmer" than the green areas of your lawn it usually means that particular area is not receiving enough moisture. It is best to core holes in this area, which will help deliver water right to the roots. The second item you may want to check will be for grubs.
There will be no mistaking these creatures. They are usually about the size of your thumb, creamy white with a brown head. They will feed on the grass roots to store up for winter and "hibernate" and emerge next year as adults.
These adults are the May and June beetles your see flying around at dusk in early summer. There are granular and liquid insecticides as well a natural beneficial nematodes to help control these critters.
The third item to check for will be a fungus. If you look closely at the blades of grass that are just around the edge of a dry patch you may notice lines or markings on each individual blade(s) of grass. If you have already checked for water or grubworms and are sure these two are not the problems this could be whats making your lawn turn brown.
There are also granualar and liquid fungicides available to help with this situation.
If you have any flowering trees or shrubs such as roses, crape myrtle, vitex, bird of paradise, oleander, among others it is very important to remove the "spent blossoms" as they appear. This action will help keep your flowering plants blooming up until frost. If this is not done the plants will spend a lot of energy into forming seeds at the expense of new blossoms.
Remember this usuallly works on just about any flowering plant. If your plants are looking a little pale in color you may want to incorporate some iron into your soil. Plants and lawns can lose some of their deep green color this time of year due to so much watering.
The soil may get leached out of it's nutrients by August so it is important to replace these minerals with chelated iron or Ironite. This not only puts a deep green back into the foliage but also makes flowers more vibrant.
If it has been more thant 5 to 6 weeks since you last fertilized your lawn then it is time. For this area a 16-8-8 fertilizer with iron, sulphur and zinc is recommended. This may be used on a fescue, rye or bermuda lawn, as well as trees and shrubs.
If you have any questions concerning "August Garden Tips" please email us at: us@guzmansgreenhouse.com
Here are a few tips to keep your garden and a few specific problems from getting away from you during the month of August gardening. Your lawn, again usually three things or any combination of them may be the culprit(s) for making your lawn or patches of your lawn turn brown.
Check water first. It may be that your sprinkler is just not applying enough water to certain areas of your lawn. Remember if you can see your footprints in the lawn after you walk on it then it is time to get water on it asap. If the patchy brown areas of your lawn feel slightly "warmer" than the green areas of your lawn it usually means that particular area is not receiving enough moisture. It is best to core holes in this area, which will help deliver water right to the roots. The second item you may want to check will be for grubs.
There will be no mistaking these creatures. They are usually about the size of your thumb, creamy white with a brown head. They will feed on the grass roots to store up for winter and "hibernate" and emerge next year as adults.
These adults are the May and June beetles your see flying around at dusk in early summer. There are granular and liquid insecticides as well a natural beneficial nematodes to help control these critters.
The third item to check for will be a fungus. If you look closely at the blades of grass that are just around the edge of a dry patch you may notice lines or markings on each individual blade(s) of grass. If you have already checked for water or grubworms and are sure these two are not the problems this could be whats making your lawn turn brown.
There are also granualar and liquid fungicides available to help with this situation.
If you have any flowering trees or shrubs such as roses, crape myrtle, vitex, bird of paradise, oleander, among others it is very important to remove the "spent blossoms" as they appear. This action will help keep your flowering plants blooming up until frost. If this is not done the plants will spend a lot of energy into forming seeds at the expense of new blossoms.
Remember this usually works on just about any flowering plant. If your plants are looking a little pale in color you may want to incorporate some iron into your soil. Plants and lawns can lose some of their deep green color this time of year due to so much watering.
The soil may get leached out of it's nutrients by August so it is important to replace these minerals with chelated iron or Ironite. This not only puts a deep green back into the foliage but also makes flowers more vibrant.
If it has been more than 5 to 6 weeks since you last fertilized your lawn then it is time. For this area a 16-8-8 fertilizer with iron, sulphur and zinc is recommended. This may be used on a fescue, rye or bermuda lawn, as well as trees and shrubs.
This article "Dog Days of Summer" is free to use as long as the following is attached: - Authors Gary and Paul Guzman Website: http://www.guzmansgreenhouse.com
Desert and Xeriscaping Plants in Las Cruces, NM
Color your world nursery has lots of desert landscaping plants. These plants and trees are very good for those who prefer water saving or drought tolerant landscaping. Here is a list of some plants and trees that require little water once established.
Honey Mesquite trees
Chilean Mesquite trees
Ash trees
Spanish and Desert sword plants
Texas Laurel or Mescal Bean
Bottle Brush
Vitex Tree
Desert Willow
Agave or Century Plants
Red and Yellow tip Yuccas
Sotol
Even Lantana, Verbena and Crape Myrtles need only occasional after they are well estabhlished.
And thousands of other colorful landscaping plants to suit anyones needs.
Visit this website for some colorful picturs of some of these plants and trees:
http://www.guzmansgreenhouse.com/desert-trees/southwest-trees.htm
Don't forget to visit Color Your World Nurseries located at: 540 N. Telshor Las Cruces NM. Or call us at 575 521-0496
Ask for Paul or Gary Guzman...we will be glad to help with any questions you might have about desert type plants.
Honey Mesquite trees
Chilean Mesquite trees
Ash trees
Spanish and Desert sword plants
Texas Laurel or Mescal Bean
Bottle Brush
Vitex Tree
Desert Willow
Agave or Century Plants
Red and Yellow tip Yuccas
Sotol
Even Lantana, Verbena and Crape Myrtles need only occasional after they are well estabhlished.
And thousands of other colorful landscaping plants to suit anyones needs.
Visit this website for some colorful picturs of some of these plants and trees:
http://www.guzmansgreenhouse.com/desert-trees/southwest-trees.htm
Don't forget to visit Color Your World Nurseries located at: 540 N. Telshor Las Cruces NM. Or call us at 575 521-0496
Ask for Paul or Gary Guzman...we will be glad to help with any questions you might have about desert type plants.
Sunday, July 19, 2009
Vegetable Gardening Tips

Vegetable gardening tips for anyone.
Depending on the type of vegetable seeds you have they all need different times of dormancy lengths. Most annual seeds will of course germinate the following spring season. Seeds need air, moisture, and good temperature for germination.
When the seeds assimalite or absorbs water and food surrounding the inside of the seed it will then convert from starch to sugar. This is when the embryo (seed shell) will start to grow. Eventually it will burst out of its hard shell.
Your seeds will now began to take food and water from the outside world. This is also the time when you will need to do your best to increase the chances of growing these seeds into a vegetable, fruit, pepper for healthy edible food.
How to plant garden vegetables
Choose a good location. Preferably a west location as this side will have plenty of sun. Most vegetables like lots of sunlight. Especially green chile peppers, jalapenos and other southwestern chile.Vegetables andChile plants love the long southwestern sunshine which is ideal for productive and abundant crop.
Rototill the land or at least dig up the soil with a shovel to loosen the dirt/soil.
Clear the spot or location of any large rocks, grass or weeds that may be in the area.
Chose a good vegetable garden fertilizer and apply it over the soil.
Chile peppers and vegetables do NOT like cooler temperatures. Plant them when temperatures are consistently above 50 degrees fahrenheit during the night.
A good fertilizer will have the following nutrients: Nitrogen (N), Phosphorus (P), and Potassium (K) are the three nutrients of concern to most gardeners. Calcium (Ca) and magnesium (Mg) are also needed. A good fertilizer will have a 5-10-5 mixture. Apply about 2 tablespoons per 50 sq ft.
Consider growing vegetables and chile seeds that are suitable for your area. Call your local Nursery for information on what will grow well in your area. Many nurseries have vegetables and chile already planted as seedlings. These type of plants will do better for the novice gardener since they are already set to plant and grow!
Remember its YOUR garden decide if you want vegetables seeds or grown container plants?
Water is essential to your vegetable garden. Use a good Drip System or water by hose on a daily basis especially in the desert southwest. About 1.5" of water per week should do.
Vegetables like low acid PH levels in the soil. You can always amend the soil with nutrients at a later date.
Weeds will suck up all the nutrients from the soil. So remember to pull out all weeds whenever possible.
Do NOT over water or have standing water over a long period of time. Over watering is just as bad as little or no water! Blossom end rot is where the tomatoes will look brown or black usually at the bottom. Click here for Blossom-End Rot Control
Try to buy tomatoes and chile that are resistant to "VFN". What is "VFN"? Following is what this means: V=Verticillium F=Fusarium, and N=nematodes. These are fungii that causes plants to wilt.
The most important part is constant viewing of your plants. If you don't look at them at least daily you are just wasting your time and money.
Paul
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