How to care for houseplants

Are you having difficulity growing the following houseplants: Aralia, Hibiscus, Cyclamen, Anthurium, Bromeliad, Croton, Bougainvillea, Orchids, Ficus, Assorted Ferns and many others?

Most houseplants like "indirect" sunlight. Use them in front of a window covered by venitian blinds, or underneath a skylight. Choose plants that like low light such as Pothos, Philodendrons, and Boston ferns. Always purchase healthy vigorous plants from a reputable Nursery. (Avoid Big Store Nurseries)
Be sure to fertilize your houseplants with a good "houseplant" fertilizer. Apply fertilizer every month during spring and summer. Very little fertilizing during the winter months. Do NOT fertilize dormant plants. A good 20-20-20 all purpose plant food will work. We recommend "Peters all purpose plant food".

Call your local nursery for other recommended fertilizers.
Watering depends on the type of houseplant you want, but as a general rule keep the top of container moist. Do NOT over water. Make sure all containers drain well. For Super Blooms try "Green Lights" 12-55-6. Be sure to read instruction carefully.
Check your plants at least once per week, look for pests, insects etc... Brown tip leaves could indicate over watering. Be sure to isolate the plant whenever insects are present. Use a good all purpose insect spray. We recommend "Schultz Expert Gardener Insect Spray". Be sure the product is specifically labeled for both the pest and plant species.

Organic gardening works great
Clean your plants often, remove dead or dying leaves. Dumping of an over infested plant may be the best solution. Mealybugs are a common houseplant problem. These are small white bugs that attach themselves to the leaves.
All houseplants require some natural lighting and sunlight is the best method. Remember most houseplants that bloom require MORE sunlight. Try to use south facing windows for houseplants that produce colorful blooms.

Ferns, Pothos, and Spathiphyllum like low light. Dark corners and bathrooms are an ideal place.
Over watering is just as bad as little or no water! Place your finger in the soil. If it is moist it probably does not need water.
Visit Guzmansgreenhouse.com for more free gardening information.

Everything Now 40% off at Guzman's Greenhouse on University

Guzman's Greenhouse in Las Cruces (University location only) 40% off sale on all items in stock.

In mid 2008 the land located at 655 University avenue was sold. Our lease located on the same property will no longer be available. We will have to move our entire stock to the Telshore location located at 540 Telshore.

As most folks know moving from one place to another is a BIG chore. Moving thousands of items to the other store could become a logistical nightmare. However we will do our best to sell as many items before June 25th. This will make us very happy and our customers even more so because of the huge savings on all of our garden products. The less stuff we have to move the better. Our loss is your gain!

After June 25th 2009 we will only have one store located at 540 Telshore Las Cruces, NM. Gary and Lydia Guzman (owners) are currently looking for land on the west side of the city for a future "Color Your World II" garden center.

We will continue to do our best to provide all of our customers with the best garden products and advice at the Telshor location.

If you have any questions or comments please post them on the form below

Paul Guzman

Where to purchase roses in Las Cruces, NM

Roses in Las Cruces, NM.

Color Your World Nurseries have thousands of roses. Climbing, Shrub, Floribunda's, Hybrids and Tree roses available at the University Location in Las Cruces (655 University Ave. )

Caring for roses is not as hard as some people may believe. Below is what they need. They like lots of water especially when first planted.They need at least 6 hours of sun each day. They like rich lose loamy soil.

Make sure water drains well. Roses should not be left in standing water, even during dormant winter months. Doing so can have adverse problems such as powerdy mildew or other diseases. They can be planted alone or with other companion perennials. Be sure to give then enough room to fill out. Normally around 3-4ft. between plants.

Remember to plant roses where falling snow, ice, or any other debris will not damage plants. The Best time to prune growing roses are from December through early Feburary. Deep watering is better than shallow water. Use a good mulch to retain water. Compost, bark, straw or other similiar materials discourage weeds! Use good composted soil when planting roses. Typically roses should be fertilzed once in early spring, summer and early fall. DO not fertilize during colder climates or during the winter season.

Most of our roses come from Jackson and Perkins and are considered the best wholesale rose nursery in the world. They are in peat pot containers and are watered and fertilized for outstanding bloom color and selection.

If you have questions about our roses or any plants call us today at 575 521 0496. Or contact us at: http://www.guzmansgreenhouse.com/contact.htm

From now until the end of June (2009) our Jackson and Perkins roses will be on sale at 30% off. So come by today for the best selection.

Oleanders for the southwest

Oleanders for Southwestern Landscaping.

Oleanders are beautiful Desert Plants. They come in several colors the hardy red is what most people purchase. The species is in the genus Nerium, and is also known as Rosa, Adelfa, Olean, Laurier Rose, and Aiwa. Oleanders will bloom all summer long but mostly during the mid spring season. They do not like climates that are consistenly below 20degress f. during the winter season. They also love hot climates even reflected heat from a wall or cement entrances. Most will grow to about 20ft tall and about 15ft wide. Here is a list of the most common Oleanders.

1. Hardy Red Oleander (Red)


2. Sister Agnes Oleander (white)


3. White Sands Oleander (Shorter Oleander)


4. Pink Oleander (Very hardy and grows faster than the other varities)


5. Salmon Pink (A lighter pink variety but much more colorful than the pink one)

Their is a dwarf variety that grows to about 4-5ft tall and wide. But will only come in red blooms. Not quite as hardy as the regular red oleander.

There is also the pink and white varities that have the same cold tolerances. These shrubs are very hardy in the southwest and are tolerant of droughts. They can also take lots of water which is ideal for landscape ponding areas.

Remember Oleanders like hot climates and can be grown in colder areas but will require 1-2 years of care before they will thrive.

Color your world Nurseries will usually have this type of plant. Or ask you local Nursery for such "Oleander".

This plant is highly toxic so....keep pets and children from chewing or eating them.

Spruce Tree Information

Spruce trees for the southwest (confier trees).

Alberta Spruce (Picea glauca 'Conica') - Landscape your home with something different. This Evergreen conifer has a symmetrical, pyramidal look to it. It has green to lime green pine needles. Very slow grower. Plant It in partial sun and is an excellent pine for that pine forest garden look. Excellent as a tub plant or miniature Christmas tree. In the Southwest this confier needs shade...underneath a larger shade tree will work great. It looks good in a formal type of garden setting. You can also plant this tree in a container and it requires more care. It will only grow to about 6 feet to 8 feet tall and 4 to 5 feet wide; larger with age. Can be used as an indoor Christmas Tree then planted outside after the Holidays. Cone shaped dwarf conifer trees displaying a dense dark green needles. Remember this tree is NOT drought tolerant.USDA Zones 6-9

The Hoop's blue spruce (Picea pungens 'Hoopsii') - This spruce tree does well in the desert southwest. Most folks in the southwest think it won't grow but with a little more care and water it will do great. This tree is a bright blue and more so with new growth. Pyramidal form that holds stiff horizontal branches with dense silvery-blue mature needles. Full sun. Fast-growing to 30 to 50 feet high, 10 to 20 feet wide. It is not drought tolerant so it does reguire regular watering especially during the hot summer southwestern months for extensive root system growth. Howerver watering can be reduced after establishment usually 2-3 years down the road. Feed with a general purpose fertilizer before new growth begins in spring.USDA Zones 6-9

Colorado Blue Spruce (Picea pungens 'Glauca') - A good spruce tree that will do great in the southwest. This Evergreen conifer and has a symmetrical, pyramidal form. Blue grey pine needles. Moderate grower to 40 to 60 feet high, 10 to 20 feet wide. It can take full sun and is an excellent pine for that forest look. This tree is not drought tolerant so it does reguire regular watering especially during the hot summer southwestern months for extensive root system growth. However watering can be reduced after establishment usually 2-3 years down the road. Feed with a general purpose fertilizer before new growth begins in spring.USDA Zones 6-9

There are other types of evergreen trees that will do well in the desert southwest. The Afgan, Austrain, Japanese and the Pinon tree.

(All photos courtesy of Monrovia Wholesale Nurseries).

Color Your World Nurseries in Las Cruces, NM will usually have these trees and other evergreens in stock. Call us today at (575) 521-0496

Got questions contact us at: http://www.guzmansgreenhouse.com/contact.htm

Colorful Desert Plants

Great Looking colorful desert plants.

Some of the most colorful looking perennial or annual plants in the southwest are Lantana Pants. There are over 1500 types of Lantana. The most common is the camara or the montevidensis, and there are hundreds of hybrids.

The most hardiest in the southwest is the trailing gold Lantana. It will bloom all summer long and tolerates extreme heat...matter of fact is loves the hot sun even reflective sun from walls and cement driveways. It can spread to about 4ft. wide and about 1ft. tall. Excellent as a groundcover or stand alone plant.

The "Dallas Red" is another great looking plant that blooms a dark red color all summer. It does grow to about 3ft. tall and 5ft. wide and not quite a hardy as the trailing yellow lantana. Can easily be used in a container for decorative front entrance plant.

Radiation Bush Lantana is another bright colorful plant that is well suited for the desert southwest. They have profuse color year round from rich orange-red flowers! Useful as Excellent low hedge or accent shrub. It also attracts butterflies. Tolerates heat. Full sun. Moderate grower to 4 to 6 feet tall and wide.


Things to remember about desert lantana plants. If you live in an area that gets temperatures below 32degrees F. you will need to trim them down at ground level and cover them with mulch. Be sure to water about once or twice per month during the winter season. It is best to use lantana in containers and bring them indoors if you live in areas that get temperatures in the teens or below. Lantana plants are very hardy once established. Water almost daily when first planted. Once established they require only moderate to low water. Fertilize with a high level of phosphorus only if blooms do not show up during the summer months.





Paul Guzman

How to care for a lawn

How to care for your lawn. The Secret to a great looking lawn requires using a winterizer in late fall or early winter. Lawn winterizer is not a fertilizer. It is a vitamin for the root system of any type of lawn. You want a good healthy root system during the winter months. You will see the difference in spring, and summer seasons.

You should also aerate your lawn at least once per year. If you have clayish or hard type soil you should do it at least twice per year.

Be careful with aerating too much too early as this will help weed seeds to germinate.

Dethatching is done to remove old dead grass leaves and other debris that hinders grass growth. This should be done during the early spring and be sure to use a good lawn dethacher or hard rake. If you have a large lawn you may have to hire a good maintenance landscaping company. Avoid your neighbors kid trying to make a few extra dollars.

Watering your lawn. Always follow city water restrictions when watering. If you have bermuda type grass you can generally water 2-3 times per week about 15-20 minutes on a sprinkler system. If you have all season type grass such as Kentucky blue grass or fescue I recommend at least every day at 20-30 minutes on a sprinkler system if water restrictions are allowed.

Grub control. These ugly type worms get under the surface of the grass and devour your lawns root system. Once that happens the grass has no way of getting water or nutrients to the blades. You need to do your best to kill these worms quickly.

If you have brown spots in your lawn you may have these worms. Dig around the brown spot area about 2-4 inches down. These worms are large about the size of a large thumb with an ugly brown head. Use a good grub conrtol type of pesticide perferably in a granular type form. Trichlorfon is also an effective pesticide for grubs be sure to read labels before applying.

Keep weeds out of your lawn! Those awful weeds that seem to always popup in your lawn right around early spring. Use Fertilome "Weed-Out Plus". This Kills Dandelions, Clover, Crabgrass, Nutsedge, Chickweed, Spurge and many other Lawn Weeds. Ask for it at your friendly local nursery. It really does work! You can also use herbicides to kill unwanted weeds, grass and or plants. Be sure to read instructions thoroughly.

Do you have fungus your my lawn? It is very possible. Watering at night or late evening promotes lawn fungus. Too much watering can also add to the problem. You can tell if you have fungus if you see dark brown spots on your lawn. Fungus feeds on dead vegetation even on dead wood, stumps, limbs, and leaves that is why it is important to detach in the spring.

Use a fungicide to help prevent, remove and kill fungus on your lawn. Ask for it at your local nursery store.

These are great lawn caring tips. For a more in depth look at lawn care you should visit the following page. Lawn Care Video.

If you have any questions be sure to use the form below.
Thanks from Paul Guzman.

Caring for roses

Great rose caring tips.

Roses are beautiful so many colors and varieties. Roses thrive in rich loamy loose soil. They like full sun and regular watering. Most will bloom in early spring through early summer. The hot summer heat will usually prevent most roses from blooming in mid summer. However there is one variety that will bloom all summer long. It is called the "Knockout Rose". It is a shrub rose that grows to about 4-5 ft. tall with dark pink rosettes or flowers. Ask for it at your friendly nursery.

Remember to fertilize when your rose plants leafs out. Do not fertilize during the winter months. WHY - Because you are basically wasting your money. This holds true for most plants that go dormant during the winter.

Fertilize again after first bloom. In the southwest things go dormant rather late...so the latest date is around early November. Foliage will start to grow around mid-late March. Always use a good Rose Food Fertilizer as these types of fertilizers are best suited for your roses.

Always follow a strict watering schedule. Newly planted roses should be watered everyday for the first 20 days or so. Then use a drip system about 3 times per week. You drip timer should be set about 15-20 minutes.

Use a good mulch to retain water. Compost, bark, straw or other similiar materials discourage weeds!

Trimming you roses. Only prune and trim if there is need too. Prune old dying dark brown branches and limbs. Prune off all expired blooms and only down to the down to the third or fourth limb.

Yellowing of leaves means you need fertilizer with high level or nitrogen. Not enough blooms means your soil is lacking phosphorus.

If you notice insects such as aphids, thrips, leafhoppers in your roses you can also use a good Rose Food Systemic Insecticide Fertilizer. The systemic insecticde will kill almost any type of insect that is in your roses it will also feed your roses. Ask your local Nursery for "Systemic Insecticde Rose food".

Remember to always read and follow instructions on every fertilizer product.

Types of roses

Floribunda is a busy rose with a clustered bloom habit. Usually more than 3 buds at the top of numerous stems.

Climbing Rose. The climbing rose is named for their climbing habit, they grow best along trellises, arbors, walls or chain link fences. The blooms are somewhat smaller than other types of roses.

Shrub Roses. They are known for there trouble free and easy to grow maintenance. They grow about 5ft tall and the blooms are usually large and only one bloom per stem.

Click here for more information about the knockout rose.

Paul Guzman

Shade Trees for the Desert Southwest

Shade Trees for the Desert Southwest. What are the best Shade trees for hot full sun.

Lately folks at our retail gardening store are looking for large shade type trees. And like most of us they want instant gratification. Yea, during the summer they want instant shade and they want it now. Of course money is a big factor in purchasing shade trees.
Did you know you can reduce the need for an air conditioner in a home or building by as much as 25 percent, that's a big savings on your electric bill! On the average it is about 10 degrees cooler underneath a good shade tree.

If your landscaping budget is tight I suggest purchasing a small to medium sized shade tree at your local nursery. Not only will it cost less but you will have the ability to deliver and plant if yourself, thus saving you even more money. If money is not a factor (you lucky dog) then the larger the better.

Below are descriptions and types of shade trees that will do well in the southwestern heat.

The weeping willow tree or Salix babylonica: This tree grows extremely fast can double sometimes triple in size about 2-3 years. They can grow to about 50-60ft. tall and about 30-40 ft wide. They have long pendular type limbs that hang low giving it that "weeping" look. The leaves are small and narrow but numerous which is ideal for shade. It is one of the first trees to leaf out during early spring and one of the last to lose it leaves in late fall. The wood is soft which makes susceptible to insects. This tree can adapt to almost any type of soil but does best in moist well watered soil.

The Ash Trees or Fraxinus species are great full sun trees.

There are many type of Ash trees. Arizona, Modesto, White, Fan Tex, and Raywood are some of the more popular. The Ash tree grows to about 50ft. tall and 30ft. wide and an excellent drought tolerant shade tree that turns a golden yellow in the fall. The Raywood turn a dark red color. Moderate grower about 1-2ft. per year. I recommend the male trees as the female will produce the fruit which is messy. The limbs are somewhat brittle when the tree gets older thus making it more of a maintenance problem. They do best in full sun.

Live Oak or Quercus virginiana: Is another great desert full sun tree. The Southern Live Oak - Can grow up to 70-80ft. This type of tree is slow growing but it is an evergeen in the southwest, massive shade tree once fully mature. Its horizontal branches form a broad rounded canopy. Can take full sun needs moderate watering once established. They like well drained soil and have numerous acorns that fall during the spring.

More Southwestern Desert Gardening Information at: Guzman's Greenhouse.com

How to get rid of Grub Worms

Man I hate grub worms! For one thing they are very grusome, ugly, looking worms. Take a look at the photo on the left. Aren't they ugly? Early spring is when these creatures start to do their damage. They eat the root system of trees, shrubs, plants and mainly lawns.

The grubs that you see in your lawn are the larvae of Japanese beetles, June beetles, and chafers. These grubs are usually shaped like the letter C. The have a white color and a dark brown head. They are about the size of a large human thumb.

It is interesting to note that well maintained and heavily watered lawns will attract Japanese beetles.

They can also do alot of damage during the fall season but spring is the best time to eliminate them. Here are the signs of grub damage.

Yellow round spots on your lawn.
Trees and shrubs looking like they need water.
Unusual amount of birds feeding on your lawn.
Skunks and Racoons digging around your lawn.

One product that I use myself is Bayer Advanced Season Long Grub Control it will kill grubs all season long and it also promotes Vigorous Root Growth. IT comes in an easy-to-use granules container. Color Your World Nurseries will usually carry this product in stock. Or Click on the link below to purchase online.

Bayer Season Long Grub Control - 12 lb. #700710S

Lantana and Red Bird of Paradise Plants

I get this question all the time at our retail gardening store. "Why do my lantana and red bird of paradise plants die during the winter months"?

The Lantana and Red bird of paradise have spectacular colorful looking blooms throughout the early summer and late fall months. However they do not like temperatures below 28 degrees fahrenheit.

In the desert southwest we will experience temps down to about 20 degrees or so and sometimes into the upper teens.

The best advice is to cut them back anytime between January and March. Be sure to cut them down close to the ground. Especially younger smaller plants. It is best to keep the crown covered with mulch until night time temps are above 50 degrees f.

Larger more established Red bird of paradise plants do not need to be trimmed to the ground. Just trim about 1/4 from the top.

Once the weather warms up significantly you may remove the mulch around them so that the sun can heat up the soil around the roots.

Be patient, and look for small green buds to begin emerging. Once this happens and the weather stays warm both the lantana and bird of paradise will begin to grow at a tremendous rate of speed!

You may the feed them lightly with your choice of fertilizer. In most cases they will exceed the previous years' growth, as they already have an extensive root system. Remember lots of heat and patience in early spring will be rewarded with lots of color all summer long.

The Lantana is also commonly called a Shrub Verbena. All Lantanas are tough, resilient plants that thrive in hot weather and bloom profusely from spring until frost.

Follow the same instructions as the Red Bird of Paradise. Trim down in early December or January and cover with ample supply of mulch. Be patient...they will sprout out when the night time temperatures are consistently about 50 degrees f.

Happy Gardening

Gary and Paul Guzman are the authors of this garden post.

Mexican Elder Tree Care

Mexican Elder Tree (Sambucus mexicana)

You see these trees all around Las Cruces and Southern New Mexico. (Although they do grow in California, Arizona, Texas and the rest of the Southern states).They have bright green foliage early in spring, followed by small clusters of fragrant creamy off white flowers. They have gnarly bark and may look like a large bonsai.
These interesting looking trees provide quick shade and food for birds. They seem to look their best in the cooler months of the year especially when young.

These trees are easily trained into multi or single trunk specimen. You can prune at anytime of year to help keep it's desired shape. It is actually best to prune regularly to avoid cutting back large limbs. They can become quite dense so proper thining may also be neccessary.

They are susceptible to aphids, borers, and powdery mildew. You can prevent the insects with a systemic soil drench or insect spray labelled for aphids. You can treat the powdery mildew with an all purpose fungicide. Powdery mildew will usually occur if the tree has some shade or if there is a long period of very humid or rainy weather. (We should be so lucky.) The bark is quite "pulpy" and will absorb water. With this in mind it is best not to sprinkle or wet the bark so make sure your sprinking system does not hit the bark with its spray. If this happens the bark may begin to swell and peel off the tree.

Mexican Elder trees go "dormant" during the heat of the summer. This is when they look their worst. Feeding them late in spring or early summer is crucial to minimizing the effects of it's "summer dormancy". Don't give up, if they don't look quite healthy. The first few years this is normal, and the tree will look great upon the return of cooler weather. As they mature the trees seem to take the summer heat better.

Although these trees can produce quite a bit of litter, leaves, flower petals, and berries throughout the year, it's quick shade production and beauty make up for it.

Mexican Elder Tree Photo

Gary Guzman

How to get rid of weeds

How to get rid of weeds in the Las Cruces, New Mexico Area.

Rain in Las Cruces, NM. Yea...It's great to finally get a few sprinkles of the wet stuff from the rain gods (03-09-09). Why do we treasure these few droplets of moisture? Because we get so little of it and it starts the beginning of the spring season. Perennials and annuals start to bloom, trees, shrubs and dormant bermuda lawns start to green up. But there is one big draw back. Weeds....they pop out and grow faster than a teenage kid coming out of puberty.

There are several things you can do to stop or prevent those annoying weeds from popping out all over the place.

1. Pre-emergence apply now (late winter) to keep weed seeds from germinating during early spring and summer. Remember this product will only inhibit the growth of seed growth and will NOT kill existing weeds. Ask for it at your local Nursery.

2. Pull them out by hand as soon as you see them. My least favorite but works the best. It is important to know pulling out by hand will also get the roots out. This means they will not re-generate new growth again. Weeds that get chopped off at the top will usually grow back stronger and larger due to the fact that the root system is still intact.

3. Apply a herbicide that will kill weeds but will not harm your grass. There are many products to chose from. Ferti Lome's Weed out plus works well in Bermuda and Fescue type of lawns. It works best upon the second or third application. Be sure to apply at the recommended rate via the label instructions.

4. Keep your lawn healthy and lucious by following a strict water and fertilizing schedule. Fertilize at least once in spring, summer and early fall. A good healthly lawn will usually choke out other weeds from coming out.

BTW if you really want a lawn that will be the envy of all your neighbors I highly recommend you check out this site: http://www.guzmansgreenhouse.com/lawn-care.htm

Thanks from Paul Guzman
Be sure to visit guzmansgreenhouse.com for more gardening advice.

Colorful Plants for the southwest

Living in the desert Southwest can present alot of gardening problems. This is one question I get all the time. "What plants can I use for more color that does not require alot of water?" Below are some great plants that will bloom fantastic colors, and will help keep that water bill down.

It is important to remember that even desert need water almost daily when first planted. Usually after the first year you can remove the drip line or cut your watering to at least half.


Colorful Perennial Plants for the Desert Southwest

Spanish Broom: Sometimes called the Desert Broom. Likes Full Sun - USDA zones 4a-9
Fantastic beautiful spring yellow flowers. Semi-Evergreen shrub grows up to 8ft. tall about 4ft. wide. Most cities in the southwest use this for their landscaping needs.

Green Cloud Sage: Scientific Name: Leucophyllum frutescens Sun: Full Zones 8-7a or 7b Green Cloud Sage beautiful purple summer blooms. Evergreen low to moderate watering. Can used as a stand alone shrub or hedge. There are numerous varities. Texas sage, Heavenly cloud, compacta (small), all require very little water once established.

Chaparral/Mexican: Is a sage and likes full Sun - USDA Zone 9a:
Salvia Clevelandii or Chaparral Sage - Beautiful long blooms about 5 - 6ft tall. Moderate water and excellent entrance accent shrub.

Red Bird of Paradise: Full Sun - USDA Zone: 8b-10
Beautiful bright red/orange blooms. Fast growing plant 6 to 15 feet tall and wide. Sold as annual in the lower elevations of the southwest. Be sure to trim down during winter season. Cover with mulch and they will pop out when early summer begins.

Damanitia: Full Sun - USDA Zones 8-10.
Damanitia beautiful yellow blooms almost all summer long. Great for landscaping front entrance. Easy care low water requirements. This plant will bloom profously in spring and once again in fall.

Apache Plume: Scientific Name: Fallugia paradoxa.
Loves full Sun. A Southwestern high desert native shrub does great in southern New Mexico. Open upright plants produce a dense, shrubby character with fine leaves on twiggy branches for an overall gray-green appearance. Blooms in early to spring with showy white flowers spectacular under moonlight. Very drought tolerant

Desert Willow Scientific Name: Chilopsis linearis. Likes full Sun - USDA Zone 7 - 9
Desert willow grows to about 25ft tall. If you are looking to attract hummingbirds then this is the tree to get. Beautiful light purple blooms very hardy shrub or tree. Very drought tolerant once established.

Be sure to visit guzmansgreenhouse.com for more desert type gardening information

How to cultivate vegetables

Cultivation of vegetables are to get rid of weeds, and to stimulate growth by:

(1) letting air into the soil and freeing unavailable plant food, and
(2) by conserving moisture.

Weeds, the gardener of any experience does not need to be told the importance of keeping his crops clean. He has learned from bitter and costly experience the price of letting them get anything resembling a start. He knows that one or two days' growth, after they are well up, followed perhaps by a day or so of rain, may easily double or treble the work of cleaning a patch of onions or carrots, and that where weeds have attained any size they cannot be taken out of sowed crops without doing a great deal of injury. He also realizes, or should, that every day's growth means just so much available plant food stolen from under the very roots of his legitimate crops.

Instead of letting the weeds get away with any plant food, he should be furnishing more, for clean and frequent cultivation will not only break the soil up mechanically, but let in air, moisture and heat all essential in effecting those chemical changes necessary to convert non- available into available plant food. Long before the science in the case was discovered, the soil cultivators had learned by observation the necessity of keeping the soil nicely loosened about their growing crops. Even the lanky and untutored aborigine saw to it that his squaw not only put a bad fish under the hill of maize but plied her shell hoe over it. Plants need to breathe. Their roots need air. You might as well expect to find the rosy glow of happiness on the wan cheeks of a cotton-mill child slave as to expect to see the luxuriant dark green of healthy plant life in a suffocated garden.

Important as the question of air is, that of water ranks beside it. You may not see at first what the matter of frequent cultivation has to do with water. But let us stop a moment and look into it. Take a strip of blotting paper, dip one end in water, and watch the moisture run up hill, soak up through the blotter. The scientists have labeled that "capillary attraction" the water crawls up little invisible tubes formed by the texture of the blotter. Now take a similar piece, cut it across, hold the two cut edges firmly together, and try it again. The moisture refuses to cross the line: the connection has been severed.

In the same way the water stored in the soil after a rain begins at once to escape again into the atmosphere. That on the surface evaporates first, and that which has soaked in begins to soak in through the soil to the surface. It is leaving your garden, through the millions of soil tubes, just as surely as if you had a two-inch pipe and a gasoline engine, pumping it into the gutter night and day! Save your garden by stopping the waste. It is the easiest thing in the world to do cut the pipe in two. By frequent cultivation of the surface soil not more than one or two inches deep for most small vegetables the soil tubes are kept broken, and a mulch of dust is maintained. Try to get over every part of your garden, especially where it is not shaded, once in every ten days or two weeks. Does that seem like too much work? You can push your wheel hoe through, and thus keep the dust mulch as a constant protection, as fast as you can walk. If you wait for the weeds, you will nearly have to crawl through, doing more or less harm by disturbing your growing plants, losing all the plant food (and they will take the cream) which they have consumed, and actually putting in more hours of infinitely more disagreeable work. If the beginner at gardening has not been convinced by the facts given, there is only one thing left to convince him experience.

Having given so much space to the reason for constant care in this matter, the question of methods naturally follows. Get a wheel hoe. The simplest sorts will not only save you an infinite amount of time and work, but do the work better, very much better than it can be done by hand. You can grow good vegetables, especially if your garden is a very small one, without one of these labor-savers, but I can assure you that you will never regret the small investment necessary to procure it.

With a wheel hoe, the work of preserving the soil mulch becomes very simple. If one has not a wheel hoe, for small areas very rapid work can be done with the scuffle hoe.

The matter of keeping weeds cleaned out of the rows and between the plants in the rows is not so quickly accomplished. Where hand-work is necessary, let it be done at once. Here are a few practical suggestions that will reduce this work to a minimum,

(1) Get at this work while the ground is soft; as soon as the soil begins to dry out after a rain is the best time. Under such conditions the weeds will pull out by the roots, without breaking off.

(2) Immediately before weeding, go over the rows with a wheel hoe, cutting shallow, but just as close as possible, leaving a narrow, plainly visible strip which must be hand- weeded. The best tool for this purpose is the double wheel hoe with disc attachment, or hoes for large plants. (3) See to it that not only the weeds are pulled but that every inch of soil surface is broken up. It is fully as important that the weeds just sprouting be destroyed, as that the larger ones be pulled up. One stroke of the weeder or the fingers will destroy a hundred weed seedlings in less time than one weed can be pulled out after it gets a good start. (4) Use one of the small hand-weeders until you become skilled with it. Not only may more work be done but the fingers will be saved unnecessary wear.

The skilful use of the wheel hoe can be acquired through practice only. The first thing to learn is that it is necessary to watch the wheels only: the blades, disc or rakes will take care of themselves.

The operation of "hilling" consists in drawing up the soil about the stems of growing plants, usually at the time of second or third hoeing. It used to be the practice to hill everything that could be hilled "up to the eyebrows," but it has gradually been discarded for what is termed "level culture"; and you will readily see the reason, from what has been said about the escape of moisture from the surface of the soil; for of course the two upper sides of the hill, which may be represented by an equilateral triangle with one side horizontal, give more exposed surface than the level surface represented by the base. In wet soils or seasons hilling may be advisable, but very seldom otherwise. It has the additional disadvantage of making it difficult to maintain the soil mulch which is so desirable.

Be sure to rotate your crops.
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There is another thing to be considered in making each vegetable do its best, and that is crop rotation, or the following of any vegetable with a different sort at the next planting.

With some vegetables, such as cabbage, this is almost imperative, and practically all are helped by it. Even onions, which are popularly supposed to be the proving exception to the rule, are healthier, and do as well after some other crop, provided the soil is as finely pulverized and rich as a previous crop of onions would leave it.

THe rules of rotating your crops:

(1) Crops of the same vegetable, or vegetables of the same family (such as turnips and cabbage) should not follow each other.

(2) Vegetables that feed near the surface, like corn, should follow deep-rooting crops.

(3) Vines or leaf crops should follow root crops.

(4) Quick-growing crops should follow those occupying the land all season.

The right way is to attend this matter when making the planting plan. You will then have time to do it properly, and will need to give it no further thought for a year.

Bedding plants for the southwest

Bedding and Vegetable plants for Las Cruces, New Mexico. Color Your World Nurseries have thousands of beautiful colorful bedding plants for your landscaping needs. Here is a list of what will arrive on a weekly basis.

1. Geraniums - Pink, Red, White and a whole lot of other colors in-between.
2. Stock, Pansies, Violas - Hundreds of plants available now.
3. Roses - From Jackson and Perkins thousands of them from dark red to white.
4. Tomatoes - The Early Girl and Celebrity tomatoes are here now.
5. Herbs - Basil, Rosemary, Chives and many more arriving every week.
6. Peppers will be arriving soon.

Bedding plant tips: http://www.guzmansgreenhouse.com/beddingplants.htm
Planting Vegetable tips: http://www.guzmansgreenhouse.com/vegetabletips.htm

Don't forget to visit guzmansgreenhouse.com for lots of excellent southwestern gardening information

Deer and Rabbit Repellent

Deer and Rabbit Repellent

Billions of edible and non edible plants will be eaten by Deer and Rabbits every year. This is a BIG problem in the desert Southwest. So...How does someone keep these pests from damaging your vegetable garen crop?

The best solution other than extermination or setting up an ugly chicken wire fence is to use a repellent that will keep them away.

Most repellents will work well but here are some great tips on how they should be used.

Deer and rabbits will eventually learn over time to ignore area repellent, it is best to switch where the repellent is applied. Most deer and rabbit repellent applications should be done at least 20-30 ft. further away from the last application.

Remember a good rainfall will weaken all deer and rabbit repellent, and should be re-applied on a clear day.

Deer and Rabbit repellent products

Paul Guzman

How to keep weeds from germinating

How to keep weeds from growing in my lawn

When should I use a preemergent herbicide in the Southwest.

A pre-emergent will keep most weed seeds from germinating. In the Southwest this means applying this herbicide about mid February to mid March. You can also let your flowering plants and trees tell you when to apply pre-emergent. Start applying after forsythia shrubs and purple leaf plum trees begin to bloom.

Preemergent herbicides are chemicals that prevent the germinating of weeds from establishing in your lawn. These herbicides control annual grass weeds by engulfing the weed seeds with a layer of this herbicide thus inhibitng them from germinating. This product will usually come in granular form and should be used with a spreader. It is important that you read and follow instructions on how to apply the preemergent on your lawn.

It is best to reapply after heavy rains as this will weaken the preemergent herbicide.

Keep in mind that this herbicide will inhibit any type of grass seed from germinating. Here is what you need to do if you need to reseed with desirable grass seeds.

Rake the area thoroughly to help break the chemical in place. Apply some top soil or peat moss and rake in. Water thoroughly for about a week or so to help weaken the chemical.

Another easy way to keep crabgasses at bay is by maintaining a dense, and healthy lawn. This is done by the short canopy your lawn will develop. This canopy will shade undesirable grabgrass seeds thus keeping them from germinating. Thicker healthier lawns will usually choke out undesirable weeds.

Ideally once temperatures are above 50 degrees Fahrenheit during night time is when you should resume fertilizing your lawn.

Color your world Nurseries will always carry preemergent herbicides. Visit our gardening stores today.
Paul Guzman

Las Cruces Greenhouse Garden Sale

Color Your World Nurseries in Las Cruces, NM are having a clearance item sale.

Starting on Saturday January 31st and ending on February 7th 2009. All 5 gallon crape myrtles will be discounted to 50% off. All Malaysian pottery will be 40% off.

We are receiving new shipment of trees and shrubs on a weekly basis. These plants and trees come from Monrovia, Nakase and V & P wholesale nurseries. Fruit trees that are available now are pecan, apple, plum, cherry, apricot, peach and prunes. We also have large shade and ornamental trees such as the Modes, Raywood, Bonita and Berrinda Ash trees. These trees are drought tolerant and very easy to care for.

Also, arriving weekly are pansies, violas, kale, cabbage and other ornamental cool weather bedding plants. Color Your World with our plants. Available at both Guzman's Garden Centers in Las Cruces, NM.

540 N. Telshor (575) 521 0496 and 655 University (575) 523 1520.

Paul and Gary Guzman

Mesquite trees for the southwest

Drought tolerant trees for the southwest.

Some of not the best type of trees to plant for the hot southwestern deserts are mesquite trees. Two that do particuarily well are the Honey Mesquite and the Chilean Mesquite.

The Honey mesquite: (Prosopis glandulosa), grows to about 20ft tall and wide. It does have large thorns but once it gets to it's maximum height it will not have thorns on the main trunk. It only needs the occassional rain water the desert southwest provides. It is very hardy and the root system is not invasive. If you decide to remove this tree be sure to take out the entire root system as any roots left will shoot out and produce another Shrub or Tree. Only water during it's first year and be sure to remove any watering system after the first year to prevent root rot.

The Chilean Mesquite: (Prosopis chilensis), is larger about 35ft. tall and wide much darger bark and just as drought tolerant. It will require lots of pruning to shape when first planted. Chilean mesquite trees produce numerous crossed branches and grows quite fast. Foliage on this magnificient tree tend to stay on even during colder seasons. Most varieties do not have thorns. Water requirements are almost identical to the Honey Mesquite.

Color Your Nurseries will usually carry these trees during the spring, summer and fall seasons. Be sure to drop by Guzman's gardening centers to see these trees.

Paul Guzman